I think this refers to the apple practice of having vague rules and arbitrarily classify apps one way or another with no reliable explanation reaching the outside. So not bureaucratic in a literal sense, but rather in the sense of an opaque apparently rule-driven organization that produces incomprehensible decisions.

Sometimes apps containing things like pictures of old paintings with nude ladies are fine, sometimes not.

Often updates to something published will get stuck because some rule is supposedly being broken by the update, but of course the original, accepted, app contained the exact same thing.