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There is no reason to cross the U.S. by train, but I did it anyway (nytimes.com)
418 points by gk1 on March 21, 2019 | hide | past | favorite | 457 comments



My (now) wife and I took the Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago about 10 years ago. We purchased a private cabin. We were 8 hours late leaving Seattle and couldn't get into our cabin until we got to Spokane because of some sort of merge of trains coming from Portland and Seattle. Got to Spokane, got our cabin, another 6 hour delay. By the time we reached the upper Midwest, they were rationing food, literally cutting every meal (that we had already paid for) in half. We eventually arrived in Chicago about 22 hours late.

The train was disgustingly dirty and the employees were surly and unhelpful.

Having taken dozens of train trips in Japan since 2001 I was incredibly excited for the American train experience. It was shit and I will never take an Amtrak again.


For those that don't know, the Empire Builder from Seattle stops in Spokane to hook up with a train that is coming from Portland. The combined train then goes all the way to Chicago. If either are delayed it can result in waiting for the other and long delays are apparently the norm and not the exception.

My wife and her grandfather took the train from Portland to Minnesota in the fall of last year. There were a number of issues with the service on the train that make it bad enough, but the speed of the train is a major problem of why these trains are somewhat worthless for travel. Freight trains get priority on the rail lines so many times the train was stopped for possibly hours waiting for freight trains to pass.

On my wife's trip the refrigeration went out at some point so cold food was no longer available, nor was food that required refrigeration before it was cooked. Fortunately they disembarked soon after that happened. The rest of the train was still a day or so from Chicago and those passengers were stuck with god knows what to eat.


>> We were 8 hours late leaving Seattle and couldn't get into our cabin until we got to Spokane because of some sort of merge of trains coming from Portland and Seattle. Got to Spokane, got our cabin, another 6 hour delay. By the time we reached the upper Midwest, they were rationing food, literally cutting every meal (that we had already paid for) in half. We eventually arrived in Chicago about 22 hours late.

>> The train was disgustingly dirty and the employees were surly and unhelpful.

> On my wife's trip the refrigeration went out at some point so cold food was no longer available, nor was food that required refrigeration before it was cooked. Fortunately they disembarked soon after that happened. The rest of the train was still a day or so from Chicago and those passengers were stuck with god knows what to eat.

Stuff like this makes it feel like the USA is falling apart from being a 1st world nation, crumbling in bits and pieces into a 3rd world one.


US quality of life for many is already pretty close to what you'd see in (granted, middle-class-level) China. The system is able to handle it because a lot of people don't even get to experience how so many other developed nations have a stronger foundation for everyone. They just assume that life sucks and that there isn't a better way.

And even rich people in the US are satisfied with pretty terrible experiences because US culture is so disconnected from everything else that they don't get that things are a lot nicer elsewhere! Nothing like visiting someone's multi-million dollar home with worse plumbing than cheap 1-room studios elsewhere in the world.


Stuff like this makes it feel like the USA is falling apart from being a 1st world nation, crumbling in bits and pieces into a 3rd world one.

That's exactly the wrong take-away!

Amtrak is totally irrelevant for trans-continental travel. There is a "daily" departure from Seattle to Chicago. I.e. one train per day. Probably a few hundred passengers on a good day.

I just did a quick check and there are 7 non-stop flights tomorrow from Seattle to Chicago. Average air travel time is about 4 hours. Cheapest fare for tomorrow is $262.

So this train exists for a few tourists and for a few people who can't or don't want to fly. Everyone else takes a non-stop plane and gets there in hours not in days.

It's an indication of the USA's wealth and bounty that we are willing to waste billions of dollars a year on useless vanity projects like this. Long distance Amtrak runs at a loss, the US congress provides $1.3 billion a year to make up the difference. In addition there is a $650 million subsidy for passenger trains between Washington DC and Boston. That's arguably something useful, since the route is heavily traveled. https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/2018/03/21/amtrak-gets-n...


It's an indication of the USA's wealth and bounty that we are willing to waste billions of dollars a year on useless vanity projects like this.

It's kind of a "nature preserve" of socialism in the US.


No one is taking trains in the US. You can take a MegaBus from Atlanta to New York for like $35. It takes less than the amount of time it takes Amtrak to get from Atlanta to DC. Spirit has a flight for $112 from Atlanta to New York which is the same or less expensive than a train that takes over 20 hours!

In the US, Canada, and Mexico trains are for freight. Even if you’re in the Northeast Corridor a bus is usually a better option if you aren’t driving or flying. Europe uses trucks for freight.


As much as I like trains, the that the passenger ones in the US are crumbling sounds like resources are being efficiently allocated?


Passenger trains do get priority in the US, your mileage may vary by railroad to how forgiving they are for schedule delays.

Basically Amtrak has to keep to a specific schedule, if ut misses it's window it loses the priority it had.


Wendover did a video on this a couple years ago. Basically saying why trains suck in America. And the reason is the same: freight gets priority because Amtrak does not own the track, freight companies do. https://youtu.be/mbEfzuCLoAQ


It’s the law that passenger trains should get priority, but actual enforcement of this law is nonexistent, and Amtrak does not have as much money to spend on counsel.


If you’re on CSX track, you sit. I’ve been on trains that left precisely on schedule that were impacted this way.


Train service between Utica and Buffalo is routinely affected by this.


I took a train from Chicago to LA almost 20 years ago. There were 6 passenger cars attached to 60+ freight cars. There was a 20+ hours delay. All the stops were in dilapidated industrial areas. A ridiculous experience. Never again.

For a transcontinental trip: drive a car or a van.


Amtrak has never run Mixed freight trains, so this must not have been on amtrak.


That is not true, Amtrak used to run a service called Mail & Express. One of the trains was indeed mixed passenger and freight.

That said, Amtrak engines are also often leased to other freight companies so you can frequently see freight trains being hauled by Amtrak branded engines.


In case anyone is interested in Mail and Express:

http://utahrails.net/pass/amtrak-mail-express.htm

It stopped in 2004, presumably due to declines in mail volume. (Which I wonder if it would make sense again now, due to more mail-order package shipping.)

Anyway, it's not really "freight" in the sense that most people think of a freight train. It's all Amtrak rolling stock.

They still do offer Express shipping services between some stations. It's a very cheap way to send something between NYC and Washington for same-day arrival, especially if it's a big box. You have to have someone go to the train station on either end to get your stuff, though. They move them around on the passenger trains that have baggage cars (the 'named' trains, typically at least on the East Coast).


Alas, the pictures I took were on film, and it's been lost in various relocations. Very likely it was Amtrak, with the "sightseeing car" and all.


You would probably have a better experience renting and entire rail car and shipping it as cargo across the US.


> Freight trains get priority on the rail lines so many times the train was stopped for possibly hours waiting for freight trains to pass.

This mentality weirds me out. As in: Why are we explicitly valuing the time of companies over the time of actual people? Companies can probably adjust to getting their shit 8 or 12 or 24 hours late (or, if they can't, they can charter a plane). It's a lot harder to deal with for people who need to be somewhere.


My wife and I were (up here in Canada) looking for a nice mellow train ride with scenery, out of Vancouver you can catch a train to Jasper and on northward to Prince George but... the cost of both of us to ride and have a cabin for two is 5k, so alternative to taking a 4 day train ride is flying out to london three separate times for the weekend. Alternatively we could book a fancy hotel room in down-town for two weeks and have a ritzy stay-cation.

I don't know why continental american train service is so stupidly over priced and inconvenient, but I really hope at some point they realize they are currently uncompetitive and could actually make more money offering a better service for a more reasonable fee.


Because countries' railroad networks tend to optimize either for freight or for passenger service. They compete with each other. America has one of the best freight networks in the world. https://www.thetransportpolitic.com/2011/06/29/freight-as-pa...


Canada Post is doing the same thing. Probably all others too.

Their continuous response to lower revenues is to raise prices.

This just feeds ever-more innovation in the message and package delivery markets, sabotaging themselves.


Canada Post is doing that to their letter service which I think is just a write off at this point. Their package service is amazing and far exceeds the US though. The existence of flex delivery boxes has made it less terrible to receive packages if you live in a Condo/Apartment and is beloved by my fellow non-detached-home-owning co-workers (which, given this is Vancouver, is everyone)


The package service comes at a price though.

Canadian shippers could only dream of US rates for first class mail packages and flat rate boxes with insurance and tracking.

Canada Post did a good job of privatizing outlets, and as you said, leveraging that network for the last mile.

What Vancouver is missing is staffed front-desks like Toronto ;)


Coming from the US the last thing I want is a US style post office, I love my 7/11 post pick up spot (though my current one is now a shoppers I assume US folks won't recognize that)...

Dedicated post offices are incredibly silly, embed them into stores, and offering to reimburse clerks for the time they spend actually dealing with mail is wonderful. It means that instead of having one location in little old New Westminster we've got 6, downtown vancouver (just the penisula up to chinatown-ish) has 14 post offices in 2.3 sq. miles... that's way better than some gigantic greek revival building in the middle of town that absolutely everyone has to spend 30 minutes on a bus to get to.


At least in the US, I think it's the combination of cheap airfares + the tracks being owned by freight companies, so there's not a ton of profit incentive to make it better and attract more riders.

I assume Canada has a similar history/present.


Amtrak is a government subsidized entity with monopolies on certain passenger rail, it really doesn't have a strong profit incentive.


My (now) wife and I took the Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago about 10 years ago

I've done the Empire Builder back-and-forth between Seattle and Chicago, or Saint Paul about six times in the last six years, and never had anything like that happen. I can only assume that things have improved since your trip.

The worst thing I experienced was a four-hour delay in Milwaukee because of a broken down freight train blocking the line. But we were free to get out and walk around and stretch our legs.


I took the Coast Starlight (connects SF and LA) a couple of times in the past 10 years, and I have had a pleasant experience each time. Food was good and while the train wasn't sparkling clean, at least in the areas I cared about (my seat and car) it was fine. Just the bathrooms weren't great. Admittedly this is a shorter trip than yours; this one is only an 8~10 hours ride.


I've taken the Coast Starlight about 4-6 times between SF (well, Emeryville) and Portland/Seattle. Most were pretty much on time, except for one time when the train hit a person/car on its trip up from LA. It arrived around 5 hours late at the station and ended up being something like 10 hours late by the time we disembarked.

It can be frustrating to experience long delays if you have a tight schedule, but otherwise I think it makes the most sense to just relax and enjoy the view.

I'll be taking the California Zephyr (Chicago to Emeryville; said to be one of the most picturesque routes) this May, which I'm quite looking forward to. It will be my first time riding that line, and my first time in a sleeper.


> It can be frustrating to experience long delays if you have a tight schedule

Very true. Although I've had some awful delays on airlines as well, and given the choice between being stuck on a passenger train and in a plane, I'd take the train every time. (Though admittedly the airlines have gotten slightly better about not leaving passengers on planes to stew in their own juices on the tarmac for hours and hours. But it took some people really slapping them around in court I think.)


I took the California Zephyr ... uh ... 25 years ago? It was a lot of fun! And a beautiful ride! I hope you enjoy it!


I like that train because it's perfect for getting work done.


I tried taking the train from Santa Barbara to San Jose - I have heard a lot about the picturesque route - but the train was delayed at arrival by a few hr, and since I had a prior engagement, I'd to rent a car and drive to SJ.


I believe the reason is because freight gets higher priority on the rails than travelers in the U.S.


Amtrak has a Twitter account that tweets out delays, including the reasons for them. It's almost always due to freight traffic: https://twitter.com/amtrakalerts

Apparently the freight haulers have tried to get them to stop publicly blaming them like this.


Yes, and no.

To the railroads it gets higher priority. But if a freight train bocks a passenger train the railroad gets fined by the hour (quarter hour?).

However, the freight railroads often just eat the fine as a cost of doing business. Like delivery companies do with parking tickets.


Apparently this was contested a couple years ago in the courts:

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/powerpost/wp/2016/04/29/...


Fined by who? Aren't all the railways privately owned and just licensed by Amtrak?


The law that created Amtrak provided for it to operate on tracks owned by freight companies, with usage fees, under the condition that passenger trains get higher priority than freight trains. Part of that condition is fines, payable from the freight company to Amtrak, for Amtrak train delays caused by the freight company.

Unfortunately, for various political reasons that part of the law has almost no teeth so freight companies openly flout it or treat the meager fines as the cost of doing business. It's a big part of the reason that passenger rail sucks in the US.


Amtrak doesn't even license it - Amtrak is actually owned mostly by the freight railroads.


The National Passenger Rail Corporation is a federally chartered corporation whose controlling interest is owned by the US federal government.


Yup. It's the rails underneath it that are mostly owned by freight or other rail companies.


You were heading east. Notice that all these reporters start in the east and head west. Buy a ticket and start your journey as close to DC/NY as possible. It is very different. I dont know why. I suspect power politics, or the interaction with freight trends, but i have heard this from many travellers.


On the plus side, there's a saying that suggests a good way to know if your couple can weather the test of time is to sit on top of each other for a long enough period of time -- such as a weeks-long camping trip, or a long, harrowing bus or train ride.

That makes you quite lucky, and you eventually got married. Most couples don't know if their future marriage is seaworthy until they hit their first major storm.


That's too bad. I've taken the train from Denver to Iowa and from Chicago to Iowa several times. Very relaxing and very enjoyable. It's my favorite form of travel. You of course have to accept it takes much, much longer than flying and even driving.

Good to be aware longer train rides might not be as nice.


Denver to Chicago would be perfect for high speed rail. An express high speed train could beat air travel door to door.


No it wouldn't. The ridership cliff for HSR is around the 3-4 hour mark, or about 500-600 miles--Denver-Chicago is 1,000 miles, well outside that range.

What would work quite well, though, would be something like the Auto Train: you can get an overnight ride that ferries your car and you don't have to drive the thoroughly boring drive of the Great Plains.


By the time you got to the airport and through security theater and on the plane, then cleared for take off, HSR would be stopping in Omaha.


That would be great. The drive across Kansas is torture.


Huh. Anecdotally I’ve heard from friends who took a scenic train from San Francisco to Denver and San Francisco to Seattle and found it a pleasant experience.

I think this was specifically a train for fun and scenery. The destination is part of the point too but this wasn’t marketed or intended as transportation as a means of getting from point a to b.

In short I’m sure your experience is a reliable indicator of at least some of the state of train travel in the us. But it can be better than this, as a niche industry.


I just priced from my Midwest to West Coast and it's almost $5,000 for 2. As if that didn't giving me pause, your comment really put the nail on the lid.


For Chicago to Los Angeles, in June, I’m seeing pricing for two people at USD 286, 358, 688, or 723, depending on seating or roomette, for direct or via Texas, and 1109 max via Sacramento & the coast. Granted, I may be misreading the Amtrak site, whose UI/UX is sub-optimal.


I've done some longer distance trips with Amtrak and generally had a pretty good experience outside of Union Station in Chicago which was awful.


>It was shit and I will never take an Amtrak again.

All Amtrak lines are operated a little differently, AFAIK. As far as the West Coast is concerned, I find both the Pacific Surfliner and the Coastal Starlight to be pleasant and enjoyable (although not very affordable). The Northeast Regional on the East Coast is pretty affordable, runs often, and makes traveling between cities in the Northeast megalopolis without a car pretty trivial, which is nice.

All that's to say that I wouldn't judge Amtrak by its least-used routes.


>Amtrak

Found the problem.


[flagged]


Could you please stop posting unsubstantive comments to Hacker News?


I don't consider bashing a toxic-unsustainable transport culture unsubstantive.


What makes it unsubstantive is the low signal/noise ratio of your own comment. Happening to be right, such as when criticizing something evil or dumb, doesn't by itself add to that.

Also, you've posted a lot of these unsubstantive comments. Could you please review https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html and take the spirit of this site more to heart? We'd be grateful. These other links also might help:

https://news.ycombinator.com/newswelcome.html

https://news.ycombinator.com/hackernews.html

http://www.paulgraham.com/trolls.html

http://www.paulgraham.com/hackernews.html


That just sums up the American experience for just about anything. The country is disintegrating internally and I would blame it squarely on its military-industrial complex.


Yay government-run train service.


You know, I have a suspicion that the reason the US has poor government services compared to other countries is in large part because too manypeople in the US believe government services are poor.

If the wrong people get in charge (and very likely if the ideology is widespread) they make little effort to improve things other than to cut costs.

Competition usually improves things, it's true, but natural monopolies are still problematic.


Government services in the U.S. are both bad and expensive. The NYC MTA spends seven times as much money to build subway per mile than London or Paris. It spends about twice as much per passenger mile for subway service as London's Tube. We spend more per student than almost anyone else on schools. Why would someone in the U.S., confronted with the evidence, believe that government services aren't poor?


The US government should model its train service after Europe, since Europe clearly knows what it’s doing and the US clearly doesn’t.

Also, would you then be consistent and argue that the government shouldn’t be spending so much on highways for cars, since it’ll just waste that money too?


A key reason for American trains being bad is that demand is different. (Which to some degree is caused by offer)

The USA has large areas of sparsley populted land where flying for long distance, and car for the the closer area are hard to beat. This is way different from more densly populated Europe and even more densly populated Japan (especially when excluding Japan's motain regions)

If there were drive more more trains this would first require massive investment in infrastructure, to build both: the medium distance lines through populated area (for example along the east and west coast) as well as a network of connecting services fading out in the suburbs of the hub. Hardly anybody wants to go from hub to hub. If they need an car for "the last mile" anyways it's likely they won't take the detour to the train station and then having no way to continue on the other end ... If instead they can drive the complete distance.

Successful railways need a network connecting complete regions providing enough potential for a frequent service.

Building that requires huge support by politics/society.


Or Japan. Privatize Amtrak completely.


The UK is case in point evidence that private railroad operations will not make it cheaper. Rail travel in the UK is insanely expensive and delayed.


Japan’s rail lines were almost entirely developed by the government, and transferred to private companies later.

Private enterprise is great when taxpayers pay for the expensive part.


And, while Japanese rail service in general is pretty much as good as anyplace in the world, the Shinkansen is not inexpensive. It's nonetheless popular because HSR is a good match for the distances between a number of populous cities.


There's no reason to think that what makes train service in Japan better than in America is related to it being privatized.

I have total faith that we could privatize Amtrak and have it be just as execrable in comparison. And then it would be sold off for parts, some assholes would get tremendously wealthy, and we wouldn't have any passenger rail network at all.


>>Government services in the U.S. are both bad and expensive. The NYC MTA spends seven times as much money to build subway per mile than London or Paris.

This has basically nothing to do with the fact that it is government-run.

I don't know if you noticed, but building massive infrastructure cost a shitload of money for private enterprise as well.


London and Paris both involve massive infrastructure, too.


I've been listening to the Revolutions podcast recently, and I'm currently in the post-french-revolution series of European revolutions. Kinda funny - France tried setting up some guaranteed-work promises and implemented them through a series of National Workshops, where you could theoretically show up, do some labor for the country, and go home after a full day with subsistence wages.

Of course, the people proposing/pushing for the idea and the people implementing the idea did not share a lot of membership, so the implementers put a person deeply opposed to the project in charge. Of course, no projects of use got approved, most of the projects that did get approved were obviously pointless and tedious, and they were constantly thousands of jobs short or what was needed to employ everyone who wanted work anyway.

So yeah, that's why we have the "digging and filling holes" analogy for useless make-work. Ideas are fine and all, but it doesn't matter for shit if you have an antagonist implementing them.


There is no good economic rationale for long distance trains. The only part of Amtrak that is actually profitable is the NEC, the rest of it generally loses money.


The federal highway system must be even worse then. It brings in zero revenue and costs way, way more than the trains.


Don't forget the usage tax we all pay for the highways via the Federal fuel tax. But I suppose that is not directly considered revenue.


Unfortunately that usage tax doesn't even begin to pay for maintenance and is subsidized from the general budget. Transportation funding is pretty bad in the US.


Exactly, how much does the EPA cost enforcing clean air and water standards?


In other words, it doesn't enjoy the level of government subsidies that other forms of travel currently do?


Yes, exactly.

The question I'd ask is, other than preserving the way of operating that amtrak has, is it worth the subsidy - I'd say yes, preserving the knowledge of how to operate LD trains is important, so is offering the rural communities it serves transportation, I'd like to expand rail service even.


Other governments do it just fine.


Who? In most of Asia trains are privatized. In Europe, the passenger rail companies are in various stages of privatization. Rail in the UK is more or less privatised. Deutche Bahn, SNCF, Trenitalia, DSB, etc., are private companies. The government is involved in the sense they are the largest or sole shareholder, but they are run as for-profit corporations. For example, they compete in other countries. Many, such as SNCF, are on the path to further privatization: https://www.railway-technology.com/features/french-rail-refo.... Amtrak, though legally an independent corporation, is in practice operated like a government agency.


Nearly all the privatized rail systems share the characteristic that the government (in some fashion) still owns the underlying trackage/right-of-way.

This is not a bad model: the public retains the land and tracks, and provides them for private enterprises to run trains on, subject to some sort of coordination so you don't have wrecks.

That's similar to how many airports work, how the Interstate Highway System works, etc.

However, for historical reasons it's not how the US system operates, and it would be very difficult for the government -- absent a lot of spending that I doubt the public has the appetite for -- to acquire the land and rights-of-way.

On routes where Amtrak actually controls the underlying trackage, it operates quite well. Where everything goes to shit is when Amtrak operates on others' track.

If we really wanted a good passenger-rail system, what we would need to do is build dedicated passenger rail lines, totally separate from freight rail. The two types of trains are so different today that it doesn't make sense to run them together. High speed passenger trains do best on banked track, and not having freight trains around for them to run into allows you to use lighter rolling stock. Acela trains have been described as "rolling bank vaults" because of the collision protection they have to have -- simply because they're liable to collide head-on with a fully loaded freight train. There's no good way around it, except to stop mixing the two up.


> On routes where Amtrak actually controls the underlying trackage, it operates quite well. Where everything goes to shit is when Amtrak operates on others' track.

No it doesn’t. Amtrak owns the lines between Baltimore and DC. I used to commute it every day for two years and it was awful. Amtrak struggles to adequately maintain the northeast corridor, because as a result of government-imposed mandates, its operating profits from there go to subsidizing service on lines nobody uses. Similarly, Amtrak is just shitty at logistics and operations—planning around track work, giving updates about delays, keeping trains in working order, etc. Again, they have no mandate to turn a profit (unlike government owned rail lines in Europe) so they run like the DMV, rather than a rail carrier.


Quasi-public to be accurate.

That said, Amtrak came into existence because most of the private rail companies had failed or were failing. Had the federal government not stepped in, we'd arguably have no long distance passenger rail service outside the Northeast Corridor (where Amtrak basically makes the money that it then loses on pretty much every other route in the country).


UK network is run by https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_Rail and the train operators are on government franchise. More importantly though it's pretty much universally recognised in London that TfL (the tube and overground) is much better and more reliable than the rail companies, and TfL is a government body directly.


In the UK, a government entity owns the rails. But the actual operation of train service is contracted to fully private companies.


[flagged]


No personal attacks, please.


It's hard to tolerate dishonest disagreement, but fair enough.


Deutsche Bahn is a "private company", but with 100% of stocks owned by the state. That’s in all relevant metrics state-run.


The German government is the shareholder and appoints the board, but Deutsche Bahn is otherwise operated as a private company. For example, it operates at a profit, its CEO is compensated comparably to other corporate executives, and it competes with other rail operators both inside Germany (it has subsidiaries that compete to operate regional train service), and internationally. Amtrak is operated, for all intents and purposes, like a government agency. It operates at a loss, its CEO is compensated like a government officer (no incentive to cut costs to boost bonuses), Congress exerts significant political input into operational decisions, it does not compete with anyone inside or outside the U.S.


Germany also has many fewer freight trains than the US. Their rail network is optimized for passenger use, and it works well.

The US rail network is optimized for freight hauling (and it's largely owned by freight railroads and maintained at private expense, and those railroads turn a consistent profit). It also works well -- for its intended purpose.

If you want to move 3000 miles at 45 MPH remarkably cheaply, and you happen to be (or live in) a cargo container, the US rail network is built just for you!


Competition is a bit of a red herring - it's not as if anybody is stopping anybody from starting their own train service in America tomorrow. The reason Amtrak is run like a government agency is because if they didn't offer routes at a loss, nobody would run those routes at all.


DSB is NOT a for profit company in the normal sense. They rely on huge public subsidies to survive.


Amtrak isn't a government agency though. It's a public-private partnership AFAIK


Amtrak is a corporation owned by the U.S. government. That structure is typical for rail operators. What's different is that Amtrak is operated like part of the government, while European rail operators are actually operated like private companies. For example, the CEO of Deutsche Bahn is paid like a private CEO, while the CEO of Amtrak is paid like a senior government officer (and right now, actually, not being paid at all).


which is the government-run train service?


Could be wrong, but I think India and China rail is government run.


Maybe but the parent post is a bit confusing.


My wife and I did this several years back, New York to Chicago to San Francisco, and it really was a wonderful experience.

But get a sleeper compartment, don't sit with the cattle. It's worth it, really.

And that's even though we spent little time in our compartment almost the whole trip we were up in the observation car watching the American landscape roll by.

One highlight of the trip was when storms over Helper, UT, washed out some of the ballast from the tracks. We had to wait three hours for someone from the railroad to come inspect to see if it was safe to pass. While waiting, there was a guy with a guitar in the observation car, and we had a nice sing-along.

It's just a great way to see samples of everything America has to offer.


> While waiting, there was a guy with a guitar in the observation car, and we had a nice sing-along.

That bit sounds like hell to me but I'm glad you had fun! In the UK we have special carriages where you're not allowed to make a noise so you can avoid that kind of thing.


Thats because there is a cultural difference between how americans and europeans see trains. For americans its something quaint and wild whereas for europeans its just a basic form of transportation.


I once saw a large party of school children going on a trip on the Caltrain. Turned out they weren't going anywhere... it was just going on the train that was the activity. A commuter train running alongside a highway through urban sprawl. They were whooping when it pulled into the station.


While it's fun for the kids it's also important for them to get used to and respect trains. I've found that kids who grow up in places where trains aren't as popular don't develop a healthy fear of them. When my son saw train tracks for the first time at 2 yrs old his first reaction was to run towards them. So trips like these can teach kids how to properly act at a train station.


When I first read fear I thought you meant of the terrible infrastructure of trains in the US :)


I've taken the train in Minneapolis from the mall to downtown several times, purely for the novelty of it. We have a lot of freight trains in Iowa. Passenger, not so much.


I live a few blocks from that train, so I wind up taking it all the time to get to the mall or downtown. The novelty wears off, and you wind up mostly worried about having to share your ride with packs of unruly teenagers, or sports fans heading downtown who can't resist saying racist things about our various African immigrant neighbors. It's a pleasure or a drag, depending on the manners of those who share the ride.


One Iowan to another: you didn't ride a train in Minneapolis. You rode a streetcar (tram in British). And yes, only the southeast corner of Iowa is served at all by passenger rail. Would be nice if they extended the Hawkeye Express to CR, or better yet, Amtrak service from Davenport to IC to DSM. Alas, not enough $$$ to make it worth doing.


The Northstar line north of Minneapolis is a "real" train that run on normal tracks:

https://www.metrotransit.org/northstar-line

The lines that goes between the Mall of America, downtown Minneapolis, and St Paul are light rail, and are faster than what would normally be considered a "tram" or "streetcar".


I'd think it still counts as being a train. Obviously it's short-distance light rail, but it's still got all the main feature's of a train.

I mainly mentioned it since the parent comment was about a group of girls getting on the train purely for the experience of being on the train, and my experience seemed pretty similar.

Don't know that it terribly matters one way or the other though I guess.


If you really want to get technical, the key defining characteristic of a train is that it consists of multiple connected railway vehicles that move together. A railway vehicle is of course a vehicle that runs on tracks.

So there are some tram/streetcar/light rail systems out there (like the one in New Orleans) that consist of individual railway vehicles, and are thus not trains.


Amtrak is heavy rail - that's light rail, which is kinda different.


>large party of school children going on a trip on the Caltrain.

Haha when I took Caltrain daily to mountain view this was my nightmare. Bluetooth headphones and a white noise app were a requirement.

Those field trip days, and the rides home on baseball game days... I do not miss that commute.


I take the Caltrain almost daily to mountain view, and I feel the exact opposite. Usually I look around and everyone has their bose headphones on while working on their macbook pro. It feels like were all drones, working 24/7 waiting to die. Where as game days/school trips are the highlight of my commute, it feels more human IMO.

I grew up in the eastbay, and at least while I was growing up, the bart train was a friendly environment of people interacting with one another. Obviously it came with some not so pleasant things (i.e. homelessness and unwanted touching) but more human none-the-less.


Knowing I was going to miss the last "Baby Bullet" out of SF to San Jose because a meeting ran late was one of the biggest kick in the guts. I do not miss that commute at all.


If you don't mind me asking where did you move to ?


Downtown SF


I used to like to ride the Staten Island Ferry in both directions in the middle of the night just for the peacefulness of it. That and long 3am walks through midtown east/UES were fantastic ways to clear my head.


We did a school trip to ride the surfliner from Ventura to Santa Barbara a few times. Also once to ride the historic train in Fillmore. Good times.


Ha my children both did that in preschool (aged about 3) here in the UK.

I don't think it would have been many children's first trip either, just a cheap morning's entertainment for the nursery...


I mean, my 4 year old son begs me to go on the train all the time.


Trains can also be pretty quaint in Europe today now that low cost airlines like Easyjet and Ryanair offer cheap flights to most major cities. I live in Berlin and even domestic trains are far more expensive than domestic flights to medium and large cities.


Ignorant American question. Why is this the case? What are the costs that railroads are having to pay that makes them more expensive?


In no particular order:

1) Fuel tax. There's no tax on jet fuel, but rail companies pay tax on their diesel or electricity

2) Inflexible service, but high expectations. The European rail timetable is changed twice a year, and those trains will run (in normal circumstances). There will be a train from X→Y every hour from 5am until midnight, and those trains run even if very few people use them on a particular day. An airline can change the schedules more easily, and cancel/rebook passengers at fairly short notice.

3) Rail infrastructure is subsidized differently to aircraft infrastructure. I don't know enough to compare which benefits the most. Externalities aren't costed properly (e.g. noise and pollution).

4) Railways must still provide low-profit-(even loss)-making services, they may be expected to do this using profits from other routes. For example, long distance intercity trains might be subsidizing rural services.


Railways also have the externality of stopping all traffic.

More of an issue for lumbering freight trains than passenger trains though.


This came up in something related: the Dutch Greens have been campaigning recently to reduce or eliminate flights to and from Schiphol within a 750 km radius, in favour of trains.

Answering your question, on the issue of price they note that no fuel tax is is paid on airplanes fuel and no VAT (21%) on flight tickets.

I think it’s a clever win/win play: reducing short haul flights in favour of railways not only reduces emissions and noise pollution, but it also frees up some capacity at Schiphol.

And there’s been some success already: the house has accepted a motion to eliminate the Schiphol-Brussels route.


I'm also an ignorant american, but I've traveled Europe for months by rail and air.

By american standards, both methods are dirt cheap.

Ryanair cuts every cost you can imagine. No free water or pretzels, tiny seating area, no first class, outskirts airports, no checked or carry on, tarmac boarding.

On trains you get sufficient space to stretch your legs, a power outlet, wifi, unlimited baggage etc. and you get to arrive and depart in the city center.

I think the pricing is based upon consumer value more than service costs.


So long as fuel is reasonably priced, planes can take more people farther, faster it is simple economics. Trains are still preferable for local trips and even some medium range trips, but to go all the way across Europe by train would be terribly expensive compared to taking a cheap flight.


That doesn't really answer the question. What about planes is cheaper? For simple economics to apply, they have to do something cheaper than trains, and it's not obvious what that is. As far as I know, for example, trains are significantly more fuel efficient per passenger-mile.


There are several reasons why flying can be so cheap in Europe:

1. The discount airlines have become masters at turnaround times. When the planes are sitting at the gate, they're not making money. They slashed these as much as they could.

2. They only fly one model of airplane (typically either the 373 or a320) to simplify maintenance.

3. Most major airports in Europe are privatised. One of the effects of this is that they've become giant malls that want to get people through them, so landing fees have steadily gone down (there are edge cases where the airports pay the airlines to go to them, but those are rather rare exceptions).

4. Some airlines (more specifically Ryanair) fly to cheaper/more outlier airports. If you take a Ryanair flight to Paris, you're landing in Beauvais Airport, which is almost halfway to the english channel. You'll then have to take a bus. When in europe, I usually prefer Easyjet for the reason that though they're more expensive, you're landing at an airport with decent transit to the city you're visiting.

5. There's no frills at all. If you're just flying with no luggage, you won't believe how cheap it can be (I flew from madrid to london for 25 euros). But the fills aren't cheap. Checked baggage is more than the cost of the flight, food is a rip off, etc.

Also, trains in europe are still often state-owned (not the case everywhere, I know), so they're forced to run uneconomical lines for political purposes, etc.


> (there are edge cases where the airports pay the airlines to go to them, but those are rather rare exceptions).

Thing may have changed since a few things happened meanwhile, but a couple of years ago Ryanair got about 100 Million EUR [1] (sorry, link in Italian) from various Italian airports. Verona airport used to pay up to 24 EUR per passenger to low cost companies.

My understanding is that some airports have been opened for political reasons even when there was no real need, so they are "forced" to make such agreements in order to guarantee a decent amount of passengers.

I'm wondering if this happens also elsewhere in Europe.

[1] https://www.corriere.it/economia/17_marzo_18/cento-milioni-a...


> 1. The discount airlines have become masters at turnaround times. When the planes are sitting at the gate, they're not making money. They slashed these as much as they could.

As a european who moved to the US recently, this was mind boggeling the first time I boarded a plane in the US. I arrived at the airport expecting a typical 10 minute boarding time, but kept getting more surprised at how inefficient they managed to make boarding a plane as time passed. Just the time spend waiting in the plane at the gate before they let you get out seems to be longer in some cases than the typical turnaround time for euro flights.


So in short, European flights have doggedly cut all ancillary costs while rail has not done so quite as heavily/aggressively?


Airlines are able to externalize costs that rail lines are not able to.


Not having to maintain thousands of miles of rail seems like a big cost savings right up front. Trains should have lower fuel costs, but fuel really isn't that expensive in the grand scheme of things. People are also willing to give up some creature comforts if the trip is short which helps airlines. Trains also have a lower throughput of passengers compared to employee hours, so salary costs per passenger are higher.


The simple economics is in passenger volume. A plane can carry more people, to more destinations within Europe, several times a day.

Your statement that "As far as I know, for example, trains are significantly more fuel efficient per passenger-mile" definitely has some merit, but... trains are only more fuel efficient per passenger if they are as full as planes. An Airbus with 180 passengers might beat a train in per passenger miles if the train is not loaded.

Considering that, trains definitely are cheaper for highly utilized routes (commuting routes, for example), but for a leisurely trip across Europe, an Airbus packed to the gils could be cheaper.


Planes most likely benefit from the economies of scale, simply for the huge number of riders they service in comparison with trains for longer stretches.

The complicated area of railroad tracks probably doesn't help either. Someone is paying for them and the maintenance is frequent judging by the business my friends working on the railroads get.


This is worth your 8 minutes of time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbEfzuCLoAQ I love trains, but the economics of rail travel in the USA can't be overcome. Until robot trains.


I have seen that and agree that country-wide train service is indeed expensive, but there really should be better offerings on the east coast that could compete against bus service. Being on a train with plenty of room has a huge quality advantage over buses and the scaling of their carrying capacity means that companies can be more free in allowing luggage and seating space than the economics of planning the layout of a bus.


Train service in the US Northeast is pretty good at least for the cities it services. It's not price-competitive with Megabus but is train anywhere competitive pricewise with discount buses?


at least for the cities it services

And that's the catch. I've been told that years ago it was better, but try to catch a train to a secondary city in New England and you'll often find that the only offering is an occasional Amtrak branded bus.


Fair enough. It's mostly the coastal corridor that's good with a couple on inland spurs from NY/New Haven up to St. Albans and Montreal that aren't terrible. But otherwise, there's something of a gap between commuter rail systems (which are pretty hub and spoke in any case) and what Amtrak covers.


As a former vermonter... The St. Albans service is terrible, trains go into Essex Junction (basically, Burlington) once a day and the train leaves NYC at 11:33 am and gets in at 8:18 pm, eight hours for what is a five hour drive with a single train a day.

I don't disagree that some other services might be alright, but that's clearly not one of them.


I haven't kept up on those services. I know they've come and gone over the years but I was being charitable. I used to semi-regularly take the train from White River Junction to Philadelphia but I pretty much only use the Acela/Northeast Regional these days and that's really the "good-ish" part of the service I'm aware of. (Where good-ish is defined as preferable to driving, the bus, and plane--so long as not doing the whole length.)


New Haven? Ugh. Connecticut fucks with Amtrak relentlessly. Take a look at how Acela slows to a crawl out there.


This video does a pretty good job of explaining it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwjwePe-HmA


Part of it is fuel tax (which planes don't pay in Europe). I'm speculating, but I'd guess that the maintenance on the tracks is pretty significant. Planes don't have that issue.


Trains need a lot of infrastructure, meaning maintenance and construction costs (i.e. tracks and stations). Also, as they are slower, wage costs can be higher than planes.


[deleted]


I misread the comment the same way at first, but he was clearly just being polite and self-deprecating.


Good point - that's 100% my bad. I wish I could retract my comment, but I don't think there's a way; I appreciate your insight.


Since we're the only ones in the subthread, I'll just delete your comment. (Am a moderator here in case that's not clear.)


That makes sense. I knew I had seen your scree name before lol. Thank you - much appreciated.


Are they?

Düsseldorf-Munich for 26,70€ including reserving a seat.

Kiel-Düsseldorf 29,90€. To get back, 26,90€.

Kiel-Munich and back for 53,80€.

Not even Ryanair is that cheap, especially when you consider that with trains you don’t have to go through security, have none of the check-in times and other bullshit, and can take luggage without paying a 60€ surcharge.


None of those are to or from Berlin. Munich might have cheaper rail options than Berlin, especially since Munich is a more traditional hub of industry. Flights Berlin to Köln are definitely cheaper than trains. Generally in my experience flights in Europe are less expensive than trains YMMV.


Düsseldorf-Berlin is available for 19,90€, I doubt flights are much cheaper than that.

You just have to check sites like https://bahn.guru/ to find the cheapest connections.


That's a wild generalization, based on a lack of experience or knowledge. A number of passenger railroads in the United States also have quiet cars. Metra comes to mind, but I know I've seen others.

For americans its something quaint and wild whereas for europeans its just a basic form of transportation

You're either repeating outdated cliches from the internet, or you must not live in a large metropolitan area with passenger train service.


In America, "large metropolitan area with passenger train service" is the exception, not the norm.


I don't think this is actually true.

Looking at the top 20 metropolitan statistical areas in the US, you're already at nearly half the population of the US. And I know from the experience of having ridden commuter rail in most of those that most of them have commuter rail, i.e. passenger train service.

You've got to go pretty far down the list to find one without commuter rail or even a subway/light rail system (which I'm not counting as passenger train service).

If it isn't the majority, it's at least a normal experience for a huge swath of the population.


I'm reminded of the three panel meme comic.

"Yeah, we have passenger train service"

"good passenger train service?"

"Hey, lets not get ahead of ourselves"


I wouldn't say that difference holds for all americans. The trains in northeast corridor, which serve ~50 million people (~15% of us population) also have no-talking cars. But to your point, train service is treated as a basic form of transportation there.


Even if the guy was really good?

I personally think a well-executed acoustic guitar singalong can add a lot of real joy to any group experience.

I've played in rock bands since I was 15 (I'm north of 50 now), and I've been on stage in front of a thousand people and I've played to killer mosh pits and all that, but my best memories of all those years were the after-parties where it was just me and my bassist with acoustics and a room full of drunk people singing along to the Eagles or Sublime or maybe even Weezer...

Now, it helps to have a professional level acoustic guitar and, of course, a professional lead singer to hide everyone's mistakes, but it can be a magical, cathartic experience when the room all sings at the top of their lungs...

Great memories.


I think Brits find public singing embarrassing, and even more so if the person doing it is right next to you, and a complete stranger. It gets worse if it involves a guitar.

Of course, this changes if alcohol is involved.

I get the feeling that showcasing some skill in a public fashion is loved in the USA, not so much in the UK. We typically want to sit and not disturb others, and find any other kind of disturbance awkward; we try to sit quietly and pretend it isn't even happening, eg. not even looking at the person making the disturbance. eg. some people arguing at the back of the bus probably won't make people at the front of the bus turn around or tell them to shut up.


In the US observing someone showcasing a skill in public is usually not enjoyable but there is less of an emphasis on decorum and politeness and more of that good ol'libretarian individualism so going out into public and demonstrating how heart stoppingly amazing you are is a pretty common occurrence.

I think this is a bit different than busking which tends to be relegated to locations where people aren't required to hang around for long periods of time (like outside a metro station where someone enjoying your music can stay and chill for a while or just continue into the relative quiet of the station platform.


I am viscerally repulsed by public music playing in places where I can't reasonably escape. The absolute worst that I'm frequently stuck with is busking in NYC subway cars/stations. The music is usually terrible, although sometimes good, and on rare occasions great, but I don't think it should be allowed at all.

I don't have as much of a problem with street-corner busking, in large part because it can be avoided, but even that drives me nuts when I can't get away from it (outside a place I work, for example).

I love music, and when I'm in the mood, I'll seek out a street performance. City parks are great for this, and I think they're an appropriate venue. A rail car is not even remotely appropriate, and a subway station during your unavoidable morning commute, with loud brass instruments and a shitty PA system, echoing off the walls, ought to be a crime.


Opting in to that experience is one thing. I would hate it if someone I couldn't get away from started a sing-along.


> Even if the guy was really good?

Yes, even if the guy is really good. You can stand not being the center of attention for a few hours.


I guess I’m just a grump who doesn’t like being subjected to music no matter how good they think they are.


> That bit sounds like hell to me

Yeah, us Brits don't like to do anything that sounds like it might be fun when we're under stress. We want to sit there and bitch and complain about the fact nobody is fixing the track and who is going to get fired for it. We definitely don't want to have anyone distract us from that with anything that looks like it might be fun. /satire


I’ll quote Jerry Seinfeld here: “I can’t watch a man sing a song.”

Jerry and I share sentiments on this.


Hey, the moaning bit IS the fun.


This is why all our greatest comedy is people moaning... Life of Brian, Holy Grail, Fawlty Towers, Little Britain, the list goes on...


Amtrak has quiet cars, at least in the Northeast. I often take Boston-NYC and there seem to be a lot of business travelers. People who are riding in a train across Utah are probably in it for the experience.


Capitol Corridor also has a quiet car but all it means is you are assured of having to inform some bozo of that fact because the fraction of riders on their first train ride ever is very high.


The line in the Pacific Northwest that I've been on also had quiet cars.


The observation car is a specific car for socializing and community gathering. If you want less noise you just don't need to go there.


I think the USA doesn't do silence.


The regular passenger cars do have noise restrictions. It's only in the meal and observation cars.


>That bit sounds like hell to me

John Belushi concurs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqpNQ9AJYgU


At least in the northeast corridor (basically the only place in the US where trains are usable as transportation), there are "quiet cars" as well.


After 14 hours of silence you might think twice!


Spending 14 hours alone in silence is the sort of day I fantasize about.


The observation car is a special car you can visit that has better visibility. Nobody is forced to go there.


But some people might want the observe the sights and not have a lot of noise around them, right? Not really sure it's fair to pollute a public space with your music when not everyone might like it, or have the confidence to say when they don't like it. Not very nice to say to people you're going to subject them to music and if they don't like it their only option is to leave. Doesn't really sound right does it?


Maybe, but having to view the scenery from your own seat instead of from the observation car is pretty far removed from “hell.”


Seems a bit selfish that you leave people the only option of moving to avoid noise.


Again, “a bit selfish” and “hell” are worlds apart. I was just addressing the latter.


The train was stopped, so if someone left the viewing car they weren't missing anything.


A bit more of the story. Where we were stopped was the the side of a mountain. On the uphill side was a similarly-stopped freight train, with an oil tanker car right next to us. Below us was a raging, flooded, river (on account of the same storms that washed out the track). And up above was a cliff, with a boulder on top that seemed maybe a little precarious.

So we were sitting there wondering if the same storm that eroded the tracks had maybe eroded the cliff around that boulder, allowing it to tumble down through the oil tanker to send us plunging into the flood waters below.

Brooding over that was less fun than the distraction of the sing-along.


Most of the ride the observation car was quiet. The sing-along was a welcome diversion from the anxiety and ennui of sitting for hours waiting to see if the train would be allowed to proceed.


Fortunately, that should suggest that it's OK in the other carriages.


Are you Carl?


I am not now nor have I ever been Carl.


I once was headed to MacWorld at the Moscone Centre on business with my partner. We flew from Toronto to Chicago, where we took the California Zephyr to Oakland.

After MacWorld we did a little sightseeing, then took the Coast Starlight to Portland, where we changed to the Empire Builder back to Chicago.

Except what actually happened was that an avalanche in the Cascades held us up until a work train called "Snowball" showed up to clear the tracks. It had a massive snowblower, a plow, a flat car, a crane car, and a couple of coaches full of workers and equipment.

We then missed our connection, so they loaded us on double-decker buses that raced to catch up with the Empire Builder. It was very memorable.


I'll take economic umbrage at "don't sit with the cattle". When I traveled from Chicago to SF on the California Zephyr (40-ish hours), a seat was $100 and a sleeper car was over $1,000; for reference, a flight between the two is about $200. Being able to afford such a sleeper car is the sort of luxurious expense that most vacationers will likely prefer to spend on going to a more exotic destination by plane.

(I do recommend the California Zephyr, and second the parent's suggestion of spending the whole of it in the observation car, but skip the part of the route between Chicago and Denver; Denver and onward is where the real action's at.)


If you're buying a sleeper car ticket, you should be comparing it to an international business class flight with a lie-flat seat. Not a domestic flight in economy.


I'd agree only if our benchmark of comparison is "I want to travel while sleeping", but the value of flying is that you get there so fast that you usually don't even need to sleep. The journey from Chicago to SF is eight times longer by train than by plane, and, price aside, the only value proposition is a (very) scenic view; considering price, you can either spend half the price of flying in exchange for two rough nights stretched diagonally across two train seats, or five times the price of flying for two nights of decent sleep.


I did Denver -> SF this past summer and it was absolutely unreal. I was extremely happy I did it, the sights were gorgeous, and it was an awesome time to just sit and think while some of the West's most gorgeous scenery passes by.


> whole trip we were up in the observation car watching the American landscape roll by

My family went by train from Flagstaff, AZ to Trinidad, CO for a wedding and the observation car was amazing, it was part of the Southwest Chief route [1].

Even through what you'd think would be boring stretches of New Mexico not one scene wasn't awe inspiring. We got to see landscapes out of westerns and mostly away from roads/main bustle, but you'd be surprised how there is always something to see and almost always people living out there. We had to go through the Rockies in historic coal mining country Colorado and had to stop once for freight trains to go by, but the views were amazing. It is fun to lookup what you are going through on Google maps and finding lots of interesting stuff. Trinidad, CO was a nice little interesting historical town, once a border town, where Fishers Peak was a guiding landmark for settlers on the Santa Fe Trail, with Native American, pioneer and Spanish history, that has a Masonic cemetery, old limestone masonry buildings and underground tunnels for coal, once the sex change capital of the world, and today it is now a cannabis hot spot [2].

Best part of the train is the view and you can get up and walk around unlike on a plane, the rides are longer of course but more flexible to move while traveling which is nice. I brought my laptop to work but the views were too good to pass up.

If I had more time I'd love to take the train all across the US. I wish there were more trains simply to see the less busy areas and interesting viewpoints you can't see from the road.

Amtrak does leave lots to be desired in terms of technology, price, the food (dining car wasn't good) and general areas like maintenance, but the observation car was difficult not to be up there the entire time.

[1] https://www.amtrak.com/routes/southwest-chief-train.html

[2] https://www.cnn.com/2016/04/20/health/trinidad-colorado-smal...


In Europe there has historically been an "Interrail" ticket, aimed to allow backpackers to travel in EU countries outside of their own with a single, dirt cheap pass, valid for a month or so on each country's rail network (of course, cheapest seating and class).

I did two of them and they are some of the best travel experiences I had in my life.


Yep, and it was also a sort of "rite of passage" that every 18 year old took or wished to take.


I never did it (though I have taken quite a few trains in Europe) but in the 70s or thereabouts spending a summer after graduation or whenever traveling with a "Eurail Pass" (whatever the proper name was) was almost a chiche.


I can confirm that it was still a thing in the '80's.

And it still exists (just for the record):

https://www.eurail.com/en/eurail-passes/global-pass

But of course the times have changed.

The huge thing about this was that for most young people at the time the 18 years birthday meant a lot, in most EU countries that was (is) a "threshold" you become to all effects an adult and getting an Eurail ticket was the first "totally independent" travel experience without the family, and you got for an all in all affordable to everyone amount of money "freedom", you met a lot of other young people doing the same, you could try to start a conversations with someone (a "peer") in (actually usually much improvised) other language, you could visit places you had only read about in books, etc.

It was a great experience.


One thing I've noticed that makes it such a wonderful experience is that the trains still use the old tracks (not literally the same metal, but the same paths) that were laid down decades or even centuries prior. So as you roll through these small towns, you are often seeing the old parts that are full of character and charm, not the strip-malls or Wal-Marts. I love that.


Agree. I did a round trip about 12 years ago: Boston-DC-Chicago-Sacramento-LA-San Antonio-Chicago-Boston. Ten days on the train over 14 days. It was awesome. I brought lots of electronic entertainment and never used it. I spent endless hours just looking at parts of the country I've only ever flown over and met many interesting folks.


I’ve done Shanghai to Urumqi before in a hard sleeper. I don’t think I really saw much outside (no observation car, monotonous farming fields), but the people on the train were really interesting (eg Pakistani traders using the train to get back home).


One of the most memorable ride was a trip from Vietnam to Kunming in the 90s. I hope this old line is still running. The train travels along a canyon. The view is incomparably stunning.

China rail have pretty bad hygiene at that time. The passengers freely throw their trash on the floor and out of the window. The attendants swiped the floor every few hours. Every time they pushed a mountain of peanut husk away. There was a peasant family on board with a baby. The baby needed to relief. So the parents held him up to have him shit on the floor. The attendant saw it and really lost it. She scolded the hell out of the family.


I heard about that rail line, it was supposed to be very slow given the gauge of the line put in by the French who built it. Passenger service stopped in 2005 according to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kunming–Haiphong_railway.


Sad. I thought I saw it coming.


I went Shanghai to the Yellow Mountains on a very old, slow sleeper train. It was basically a dormitory, with bunks three high. And you don't want to know about the bathrooms - it's really just a hole in the floor, falling onto the tracks.

But even so, it was a wonderful experience. The Chinese landscape is nothing short of awesome. And the culture that unfolded was completely unknown to me, so constantly interesting.

One thing that really made me take notice was the wide range of people. On the way to the Shanghai train station, we had walked by a Lamborghini dealership (I don't recall ever having seen even one of these in the USA) - there's a not-insignificant population of filthy rich people in and around Shanghai. But on the train we saw people peasants using an ox to plow a rice paddy of only a fraction of an acre. The degree of inequality was hugely wider than America or any other nation I've seen.

EDIT: the Shanghai airport maglev train was an interesting experience just to say I've gone 300+mph on a train, but otherwise totally boring.


Yes, that is what we call a hard sleeper :). A soft sleeper in contrast is usually four bunks in its own room.

I’ve also done Shanghai to Changsha and Changsha to kunming like that. It gets interesting west of hunan.


There's some amazing scenery at the Urumqi end. E.g. I took this photo somewhere around there: https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/m3Wh2REpqnPIjHxe5FKNZQ...


I did the Shanghai/Beijing bullet with some friends who had never been to China, it was great perspective for them and me to see all the massive cities in between that are not known outside of China but the size of New York City


That reminds me of the song America, it's about a bus ride, but similar idea about the journey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eo2ZsAOlvEM


> But get a sleeper compartment, don't sit with the cattle.

Cattle?


"Cattle class" is a kinda faux-pejorative term for economy/coach/whatever the cheapest cabin is in some mode of transport.


Faux-pejorative indeed. Cattle are required to be given more space when being transported, than humans are, in Europe. Human class is below cattle class.


I don't think that's true. Have you seen how they move cattle in trucks? Maybe more space than a human because they take up more space, but they stacked right next to each other.


Have you seen the commuter trains in some larger European cities, like London, Paris, Brussels (I think)...?

People sometimes aren't just stacked, they're squashed.


India produces some real champions in this sport, the euros don't stand a chance. They have leagues up to "super-dense crush load", 14-16 people per square meter. It's still hard to believe this is possible...


"Cattle class" is an established joke, best employed by those actually riding in it.

"Don't sit with the cattle" is (IMHO) pretty harsh, and unnecessary.

And, for the record, cattle class seats are (or were) about the size of first-class airline seats, in the days before the bed capsules. It's not a cabin but it might be the least-cramped train seating you will ever encounter.


cattle class seats are (or were) about the size of first-class airline seats

This is true, they're FAR better than standard airline seats. On the other hand, if you're going NY to SF you're going to be sitting in them for 3 days, so they better be comfortable.


"Economy class, also called scum class, steerage, standard class or cattle class, is the lowest travel class of seating in air travel, rail travel, and sometimes ferry or maritime travel."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Economy_class


> But get a sleeper compartment, don't sit with the cattle

But then you have to ask why the train is stopped in the middle of a crossing, rather than just knowing it's so the train police could remove the dude a few seats over.

If I were going with a partner, a sleeper seems compelling. But alone, the back is more than fine.


> It's worth it, really

How much does it cost?


An absolute fortune. I've looked into this, and it isn't economical in any way, shape, or form. Flying across the continent is MUCH cheaper, and with your number of vacation days usually being limited, gives you a lot more time at your destination. The only reason to do this is because you really want to spend your vacation time sitting in a train watching rural American scenery go by in states like Montana. It's sort of like taking a cruise ship, except a lot more expensive and the food isn't as good (or even included in the price I think) and there's not much to do on the train except watch the scenery and talk to people.

If we had 300mph bullet trains going across the country, it would make some sense because you'd get there a lot faster while still seeing the sights, it'd be more comfortable than an airplane's economy seats, and the ridership would probably be higher (which would lead to lower costs). As it is, long-distance rail travel in the US is an expensive disaster.


I'd indeed say it costs more than most people are willing to pay.

That said, a sleeper car on Amtrak gets you: a flat surface to lie down on, your own toilet (note the toilet is just there in the roomette, next to the bunk, prison style), access to a shower (your own shower in the rooms, one per car for the roomettes), access to the first class lounges, and includes meals in the dining car.

Rooms have a slightly wider lower bunk versus roomettes to sleep 2 (skinny) people and an enclosed toilet so you don't lose mystery from your romantic or work relationships. Roomettes are too small for a first world prison cell but have the beds oriented parallel to the direction of travel, which many people find more comfortable -- the rocking of the train is more soothing and less jarring.

If you have the time, don't mind paying four-star hotel prices for a two-star experience, and hate flying or have a medical condition that makes it infeasible you should definitely consider it.

Or, if you're on this site, it's a great excuse to sit in a small room with a view and not talk to anyone for several days, just read, write and program.


> Or, if you're on this site, it's a great excuse to sit in a small room with a view and not talk to anyone for several days, just read, write and program.

With spotty cellphone reception, so if you want to disconnect from constant connectivity that's also an interesting way.

It's a great experience, but if you're thinking of just sitting in there and programming in a room with a view, keep in mind that the scenery changes and is pretty amazing, which might distract you from programming.


> Or, if you're on this site, it's a great excuse to sit in a small room with a view and not talk to anyone for several days, just read, write and program.

This sounds like fun. I wonder if there are any European routes that are as long/uninterrupted that I could try that on.


Not really - the only trains taking longer than 24 hours in Europe are the sleepers to Moscow, and the longest of those (Nice-Moscow) only takes 48 hours. There are then much longer trains from Moscow into Asia though, up to the famous Trans-Siberian (6 days).

I went London-Japan overland but my longest single segment was two and a half days (Moscow-Shymkent), and that was about right - time to relax and do nothing for a bit, but by the third morning I had definitely spent enough time in the same compartment, as nice as it was.


>I wonder if there are any European routes that are as long/uninterrupted that I could try that on.

The London to Ft. William sleeper, when there's leaves on the line?


Not really within the EU - we have reasonably fast rail that prioritises passenger travel over freight - but e.g. Moscow to Beijing takes 6 or 7 nights, and you could get to Moscow itself by sleeper train if you're up for it.


This. I’m taking the train from Tucson to New Orleans in a few days and am looking forward to ~40 uninterrupted hours.


I just looked it up.

A sleeper for one is ~1'800$. About 300 more if you're two.

That's about half of a yearly train pass for Switzerland (2nd class). The pass allowes you to travel in virtually any mode of transportation without restrictions. Except for taxis, some boats and some mountain railways.

So yeah, that's pretty steep.


A similar cross country sleeper trip could be around 50$ in India, though by Indian speeds it may take the train several days, it is common for train rides India to last more than 2 full days. The longest distance passenger train on the Indian network takes close to 80 hours one way.


Amtrak was selling Phoenix-New Orleans tickets for $79 around the new year (not sleeper though). These days you can get bargains on certain east coast routes on roomette tickets if you go on trains that they’ve pulled the dining car off of.


In fairness, the continental United States are over 195 times the size of Switzerland.


but only 12 times the width


As pure transit, I agree with you.

But that price includes the sleeper and meals. If you view this as the vacation itself, it's not far off the price you'd be paying for hotels and meals.


Yeah, that's why I compared it to a cruise ship. But on the cruise ship, the food is probably a lot better, you have lots of activities on board (games, casinos, gym, massage parlor, fancy restaurants, shows, concerts, swimming pool, tennis court, etc.) and lots of space to walk around, and it stops at several ports of call during the trip. With the train, you get none of that, maybe a few short stops in rural towns on the way but not long enough to get off. I guess if you want to spend your whole vacation just sitting down and looking out a window, it's ok...


$2k is hardly an "absolute fortune". For the typical hackernews software developer this is something like a week's worth of work for one of the most unforgettable experiences of their lives.


I totally agree with you.

But compared to a one way flight, which can be had for as little as 100 bucks it's still pretty steep.

Alas, the experience certainly cannot be compared. It's not about getting to the destination, when you take the train. You pay for the entire experience.


I can go to Europe for 2 weeks for $2k or so, all-inclusive. Spending that much money just to sit on a train and look out a window sounds like a fortune to me. Maybe for very sedentary people it's an attractive option. Even a cruise ship is a more active experience, since there's a LOT more to do on a cruise ship, and you can probably do that for less than $2k as well if you avoid all the extras.


We can build your bullet train as soon as California finishes theirs.


>If we had 300mph bullet trains going across the country, it would make some sense because you'd get there a lot faster while still seeing the sights

You should take a TGV, you'll realize that at 300kph you don't see the sights.


Yes, you would in America. It's a question of simple geometry and perspective. I haven't ridden TGV, but I'm guessing you're talking about smaller things, probably man-made ones (e.g. buildings), maybe trees, relatively close to the train. You're not going to see anything like that when riding a train across Montana. Instead, you're going to see enormous wide-open natural spaces, with absolutely nothing really close to the train. So even at a speed 2-4x that of Amtrak's, you'll see it just fine.


All TGVs run at 300kph in the countryside, which is (on a smaller scale), just open spaces. The speed reduces your field of vision.


When evaluating the price, consider that it is also a hotel room and comes with free meals. Compare it to air fare + hotel room for X days + decent meals for X days and the price becomes less painful.


Amtrak's been stripping meals out of the service to save money. The Silver Star [correction: not Silver Meteor also], which runs the length of the east coast from Maine to Florida and back, for example, has no meal car. You can buy the roomettes and the rooms, still for significantly more than a plane ticket, but they do not come with meals. There's a "snack" car for all passengers with a microwave where you can buy chips or a hot dog, and it's only open some of the time. The sleeper cars are also dirty and falling apart, and there is no observation car.


Quick correction to this comment as I just took the silver meteor recently from FL-NY. Meals are definitely included when booking a room. The dining car has been renovated so perhaps meals were unavailable at some point. The price is significantly more than a plane ticket and while the rooms are older I would not consider them dirty. Sleep is difficult IMO as you do stop, bump around and you’ll occasionally get some random rattling. There is no observation car but they do have a lounge car with tables and snacks. You could get microwave meals like pizza, burgers, etc. Definitely not gourmet fair. The dining car meal is a significant step up and while not winning any Michelin stars is surprisingly decent.


Silver Meteor still has one. Only Silver Star dropped it.


I'm not sure that is the right comparison. Let's take a New York to Los Angeles trip.

That would be 3 days on Amtrak, or about 6 hours by plane.

I'd guess that for most cases flying instead of taking the train doesn't mean we spend the 6 days that we would have spent on the train (round trip) in a Los Angeles hotel eating expensive restaurant meals. I think most people would simply leave home later and leave Los Angeles earlier if flying, so that the time difference is spent at home eating whatever they normally eat.


My base assumption is that one goes on Amtrak for the scenery. So it's not at all like being at home; it's more like being at a scenic resort.

Note that some people use Amtrak because they are afraid of flying. This way of looking at the prices does not apply to them.


The scenery, the experience, and (while I don't really like the term) the "bucket list" nature of it.

Personally, I sort of want to do at least a section of the Empire Builder or the California Zephyr at some point. And I'd also like to take a transatlantic liner (well, the Queen Mary 2) from NY to Southampton. But probably only once and I'm fully prepared for the idea to be more enticing than the reality.


It's very cheap to do in coach. I think I paid $300 or so. The key thing is to get off and spend some time at the major stops (Chicago, Denver, Salt Lake City).


According to the first paragraph in the article, it costs $1,089.


Does "sleeper car" mean you're getting a bed, or just that you're riding in that car but maybe in a seat? I'm not familiar with train travel, sorry.


Yes. It means you get a bed. Even most people who ride Amtrak regularly aren't familiar with them. (I've never actually seen one on Amtrak in person.) They're only on long distance trains.

https://www.amtrak.com/onboard-the-train-sleeping-accommodat...


Now you're just pulling my leg...

Here's a recent article that I found that describes the sleeping cars in detail: https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/03/20/magazine/trai...


That’s a pretty interesting article—I can think of a site where you can share that, people might like it.


You get seats in a cabin that convert into bed(s).


Coach/economy/steerage means you spend the night in your seat. Sleeper means you get to sleep (in a bed).


But you get a whole 'room' to yourself for that price or just get bunk in a room with a bunch of other people.


The sleepers are all individual rooms of some description with 1-2 beds. There are some larger up to 4 adults. There are no hostel style bunk cars on trains. You're either sleeping in seats or in a room.

https://www.amtrakvacations.com/blog/3-important-things-to-k... (just googling 'amtrak sleeper' gets you this info!)


Canada's Via Rail trains have hostel-style bunk beds, called berths, double-stacked on both sides of the corridor, with a heavy curtain covering them. During the day they are converted into open compartments with couch-style seating.


Then $1000 doesn't seem that expensive really, especially if that includes in-room shower and toilet


Common showers, but this wasn't a problem at all for us.

The NY<->Chicago line had toilets in the compartment - but I mean in the compartment, not a separate bathroom. So not so great.

The California Zephyr (Chicago<->SF) has common toilets. The one in our sleeper car was broken for the whole trip, for which Amtrak only gave us the slightest nod of recognition.


There are three in every sleeper car, so the failure of one is not a huge problem.


In the case of Amtrak, I believe they're all private. (By contrast when I took an overnight train in China a few years back it was a shared bunkroom though there were probably different options available.)


Last year my sister had a week off and took the Empire Builder across the country out west. Lots of talk about how the sleeper car is worth it and I remembered she didn't, so I asked her her take and this is the response:

"I traveled alone on the Empire Builder from Milwaukee to Portland, Oregon (two nights/almost 48 hours) in June 2018. I wanted to get a sleeper car but waited too long to book so my only option was a regular seat. I knew I’d be unhappy if I went straight through two nights with no bed and no shower, so I made a stop in Whitefish, Montana for 24 hours. In the end it couldn’t have worked out better. I loved Whitefish and was happy to spend some time exploring the beautiful scenery I’d seen whizzing by. The sights around Glacier National Park were literally breathtaking.

As far as the train itself, I spent most of time in the observation car, and as a solo traveler I was happy to find everyone was very friendly. I’m only 5’2” and luckily didn’t have a seatmate so I could pretty much lay all the way down at night. A lot of people brought pillows and blankets, but I was ok without. Ear plugs and an eye mask were the key to getting any sleep. There were delays here and there which didn’t bother me because I had a very loose schedule anyway.

I don’t have enough good things to say about my trip! I’m looking for an excuse to take another long-haul train."

People have their own stories, so hopefully this gives another perspective.


This is like my own experience. I've done Vancouver->Seattle->Oakland, which is beautiful. Train friends were all fun and some memorable. Also Oakland->Chicago, with my wife and 4-yr old son in a family sleeper. We had a great time. The California, Utah and Colorado segments were stunningly beautiful. And we all enjoyed the shower when we checked in to our hotel in Chicago, which was basically a block or two from the train station. Outstanding.

Its not an airliner, or a bus, or a car, and that's a good thing.


> earplugs an eye mask where key Oh shoot, I hadn't thought of this. I like the idea of trying a long/sleeper train trip, but I'm a terribly light sleeper and I bet I would get almost no sleep :(


For anyone interested in more train-travel stories I've written (partially) about my trip across Russia, starting with:

https://www.gregkogan.com/journal/russia-trans-siberian-rail...

Still have half the trip left to write about, which I'll do bit by bit.


I love stories like this, and I'm eager to embark on my own trip on the railroad.

Thank you for writing it.


Thanks for saying that. That encourages me to keep writing.


This was a fantastic read, and you are a very entertaining and engaging writer.


Thank you! More to come soon(ish).


Wow, great read. I would love to read more of this :)


Thank you for sharing, this was wonderful to read!


Really enjoyed reading this! Seems like a fascinating journey, I'd love to make the trip some day.


Read it all - super interesting!


This sparked a lot of memories. I really enjoyed it.


I just tried some borscht a couple weeks ago. It was made by an older Russian gentleman at my church (in the U.S.). It was definitely a different flavor but it was pretty good.


Note that the author took a sleeper car. In terms of price, this is a bit of a luxury.

As someone who has taken the Lateshore Limited service all the way from Chicago to Boston in just a regular seat, I would strongly advise you NOT to do that. It is just miserable.


Yeah that's a big difference. The regular seats are a much different story.

I've never done it but I read about how it's basically 3 days of sitting shoulder to shoulder with someone and there's no showers. Can't imagine what that would be like in a car filled with 50+ people.

I did take the Amtrak from CT To Boston once and it wasn't too bad, but that was a few hour trip. Much different than a few days.


I took an Amtrak train from LA to Chicago in coach many years ago. I spent practically all of my time in the observation car, so it didn't really matter to me what my nominal seat looked like. I probably did stink by the end of the trip, but I was 17 at the time so it didn't bother me (at least I don't remember one way or the other).

I think there are two kinds of people in the world. One kind needs a sleeper for the trip to be enjoyable, the other couldn't care less. I used to be the second kind, but I don't think I am anymore.


I think I fall into the category of needing a sleeper to sleep. I wouldn't plan to stay in there during the day but there's no way I'd be able to fall asleep next to someone in the open like that.

I can't even sleep in a hotel unless there's a dead lock.


My understanding is that most people are not actually traveling coast to coast, but on shorter segments of the overall route. I don't think you're likely to be next to the someone for 3 days.


Yea the Lakeshore Limited Albany->Boston is fine.


This is very correct.


When I did it the coach cars were mostly empty overnight. The seats are super wide and recline a lot. It's not like an economy airplane ticket.


The train wasn’t that full. The problem was trying to sleep. I tried multiple configurations to no avail.


I disagree.

I often take Amtrak from NYC to Chicago (and back) and just love it. The trip is about 24 hours each way. Train riders are generally friendly. Someone always has a couple of guitars, so it's fun to play and sing along. The bar car is typically friendly and the food car is generally pretty good eats.

Also, some of the stopovers in small midwest towns are a few hours long so you can get out, stretch your legs, and find a nice quaint diner or something to change things up. I've had nothing by great times on the train. Of course YMMV.


Being in a confined space forced to listen to some amateurs play their guitars sounds like one of my rings of hell.

Anyway, here's Wonderwall


Amtrak trains are very long. I've never seen anyone play a guitar or make any noise outside of the bar car. The passenger cars are quite comfortable. More room than a domestic first class flight. Also, usually the last car is the 'family' car, so babies and running kids are usually just hanging back there.


Then leave the observation car and go back to your assigned seats in the passenger cars where excess noise is discouraged.


> some of the stopovers in small midwest towns are a few hours long

What line did you ride? From my brief search, it doesn't seem like this is usually the case.


What do you do for sleep?

> find a nice quiet diner

Oh, are you getting out snd having dinner and sleeping and then catching the train again the next day? That sounds fine.


I'm sure the experience of coach varies by train and how busy it is. I took the California Zephyr from Utah to Chicago once for Christmas break. I never had someone sitting next to me, the seats are wide, the leg room was plentiful, and I felt like I could recline plenty without the guilt that you feel on an airplane. The hard parts of the journey would have been the loneliness of a college student who is too shy to make the most out of interactions like being sat with strangers for dinner and who can't really communicate with his friends(much of the trip I couldn't even get cell service, and no Wifi on that train).

I have done the sleeper car from Chicago to Los Angeles with my parents. Lucky we had one with a private bathroom, as my dad has stomach flu most of the ride. I think the possibility of a shower, and maybe even a private bathroom are the only reasons I'd shell out more money for a sleeper over coach.


As someone has taken coach class from LA to NY, I'll add that one night aboard the Lakeshore Limited was worse than two nights aboard the Southwest Chief. Smellier, smaller bathrooms, no lounge car, and uninteresting views.


In a lot of cases it is not as much of a luxury as you would expect considering the meals and how long it is. You can get a pair of tickets from SF(Emeryville) to Chicago with a sleeper room for about $675 total. A pair of coach train tickets is about $275 . A pair of one way plane tickets is $300 on the low end, and about $800 for a pair of first class plane tickets.


Agreed. Did Portland, OR to St. Paul, MN. Beautiful views. Fun to walk around. Wished there a was a smoking lounge.

But by 24 hours in it started to stink and I hadn't slept well. By the end of the trip I was cranky and exhausted. And it really smelled in the train (and this was with it just 25% full)!


I've taken the empire builder from Seattle to Chicago a couple times in coach, which I was pretty happy with. I can sleep okay in coach on airplanes though, so sleeping in coach on a train is positively luxurious by comparison.


When I was a smaller human being I could find an empty row on a train and stretch out fully diagonally under the seats. no way could I do that now but it was nice while it lasted. took the south west chief a few times, the empire builder, the capitol limited and lakeshore limited. trains are great


As someone who has taken a 4.5 day trip from vancouver to toronto in coach, I would advise the same . I love trains, but that was too much.


There are many great reasons to take a train across the U.S.

When I was on sabbatical I took life at a slower pace. And riding the train was just an amazing beautiful slow experience. Sometimes we just go through life to fast, and a nice slow train does the body well


We should all remember that souls only travel at the speed of a camel, too.


I'm guessing you've never been on a galloping camel.

This is not a comforting observation...


Interesting. In William Gibson's "Pattern Recognition" the main character feels that it takes a while for her soul to catch back up to her after she takes long plane rides. Wonder if this where he got that idea from.


Years ago, I took an Amtrak NY > Chicago > Seattle > SF > LA > Texas > New Orleans, stopping in each for a few days. I brought programming textbooks and some novels, and just read/thought all day long. At night I'd either eat in the dining car (expensive) or from a supply I'd picked up in the previous city. I'd get a sleeper car when it was cheap (eg Chicago > Seattle) and sleep in my seat during more expensive legs of the trip.

You meet people from every part of US culture (North Dakota oil field workers, Portland hippies, LA actors...) all unified by not being in a rush and a dislike of flying. On trips outside the NE corridor, the train attaches an observation car which becomes an incredible place to talk the night away with fellow passengers.

You have to be flexible, in sound physical shape, and have a month and $2k to part with (or you can just take on a few Wordpress theme contracts and call it even) but it's a truly wonderful experience for a certain person at a certain stage in their life.


I once took the train from the Detroit area (BMM -- Birmingham) to San Francisco, roughly... 9.5 years ago. I went alone, had a sleeper cabin to myself, and loved it. I really want to do it again, this time maybe stopping off places on the way. What I particularly enjoyed was the route west seemed timed to pass through the Rockies and Sierra Nevada during daylight. Basically, I went to sleep around Omaha, woke in Colorado. Sleep near Salt Lake City, woke in Reno. Then departed in the Oakland area the next afternoon, took BART to Caltrain and on to my friend's place in Palo Alto. Made for a really nifty trip.

They aren't organized (I just dumped them), and Gallery2 is showing its age, but if you'd like to see a bunch of photos from on-board the train, here you go: https://nuxx.net/gallery/v/travel/sf_via_amtrak_nov_2009/all...


Upvote for photos, nice share!


I'm about to take the train from Florida to Oregon and I can't wait. I ride Amtrak up and down the east coast all the time, and will take it over flying any day.

Yes, the trains are often late. Yes, it's slower than flying and maybe even driving. But it's a journey. You can show up 15 minutes before the train leaves and still make it on board. You can bring snacks and some beer, meet people you never would've talked to otherwise, see parts of the country you'd never see otherwise.

You get to travel for the sake of traveling -- a rare pleasure indeed.


I take the train cross-country whenever I can. I enjoy it. I enjoy the people, I enjoy the views. All the positive aspects mentioned in the article are 100% true.

But I can't help but feel that this author wants to dislike trains. He wants everyone to understand how awful and slow it is. And they went into this story with a chip on their shoulder, and were disappointed to find that the trip had value.

But the trains aren't just about cross-country travel. They travel through small towns where people rely on them for trips to larger cities. If you live in Mount Pleasant, IA, you can take the train into Chicago just as fast, and far easier, than driving. Want to go from Salt Lake to Denver in a blizzard? Trains will take twice as long as driving but you can sit there and safely watch snow-capped peaks go by instead of worrying about driving your car off the edge of a mountainside. Pick any 2-6 hours train trip on the map, and those are the majority of passengers on Amtrak. And I have frequently run into retired people heading to Iowa to pick up RVs, because Winnebago contracts delivery of RVs out, and it is a nice part-time job to get a one-way train ticket, then drive a RV to someone's home and get paid for it all.

In short, the purposes serve by Amtrak have as much variety as reasons people get in their cars. It is a valuable service to those who need it, even if authors for the NY times aren't the 'target audience'.


This story was written with a much more positive tone than I believe the facts warranted. Such sleeping and toilet arrangements are closer to prison arrangements than anything a reasonable person would expect, and the delays were lesser than what I've experienced.

I thought I was the type of person who would ride a train. I wanted to get from Denton, Texas to Temple, Texas. This was simple. The booking website is exactly as bad as mentioned. I finally got one that promised me a four hour trip with a short bus ride on each end. Alright, cool, that's fine. So I schedule to arrive about thirty minutes prior, except the train is delayed two hours. That's half the ride again, on a delay! This causes me to miss my connection, and the next train wasn't scheduled until tomorrow. I cannot imagine anyone trying to use Amtrak for actual travel, when reliability and timeliness matters.


She


I've used a number of carbon output calculators, and one of my major carbon outputs are two flights from the Inland Northwest to the Northeast part of the country each year (work related). It seems that in the case of my travel, my lowest carbon option (according to at least one calculator I've used) is actually an economy ticket on an aircraft. It also clarified that for shorter trips, the greyhound bus is without equal.

I haven't been able to discover if this is something that is specific to the United States, or how that calculation is made. However, I am of the opinion that there is always a good reason to ride trains, particularly in the US: increased demand for train travel.

Other than those two flights, I have abandoned all long distance travel for the rest of my life, or until largely carbon neutral and safe travel exists. I believe that such technologies will be produced in the medium term.


The problem with airplanes is that the carbon is released in exactly the wrong place[0] so your intuitions are correct. We are stuck between a rock and a hard place as far as air travel is concerned: don't fly and we lose a major component of global dimming[1], fly and and it puts CO2 in the upper atmosphere speeding us toward global warming on an apocalyptic scale. If you can read a graph you know we are in big trouble.

[0] - https://globalwarmingisreal.com/2013/03/20/earthtalk-airplan... [1] - https://www.researchgate.net/publication/11218772_Climatolog...


Reducing carbon output by traveling by train stead of plane is a super valid reason. It's probably the no. 1 reason why kerosene will eventually get high taxes on it worldwide (the sooner the better).


I've taken Amtrak cross-country (CA <--> Chicago via California Zephyr / SW Chief) about a dozen times in my life. If you're not in a hurry to get from A to B, there's no better way to travel IMO. Sure, the trains are outdated and a bit stanky, but it's just a perfect cross-section of American life (both people and landscapes).

It's a perfect place to zen out and burrow into a book / creative project for a few days. Plus, you can just show up right before the train arrives and you're on your way (perfect for people who run on wizard time, like me).

You definitely have to prepare a bit if you want to get a decent night of sleep in coach, though. Here's a short survival kit: -Tylenol PM / Benadryl (or your preferred sleep aid of choice) -Warm clothes / travel blanket (it can get cold) -Pillow/neck pillow/some way to keep your head immobilized -Earplugs + noise cancelling headphones -Eyemask -Patience/equanimity


I agree. Train were so much more fun as I can recall from my childhood memories. Now I rarely see someone traveling via train, and those who do are trying to save some money(train fares are cheaper in other countries).

I guess time that's available to people has shortened so much that they can't afford to engage in fun once in a while. Even the damn vacation feels so hectic and stressful. I guess that's because most people's idea of vacation is going to new country/city that they have never visited(totally unfamiliar with things there) and try to cover all of it in 1-2 weeks(all they get in a year).


I have traveled New York to Seattle by Amtrak in 2016 and it was one of the greatest experiences of my life. Sleeper class is not cheap in peak season, but its well worth the cost at least once.


New Canadian citizens get a Cultural Access Pass which enables them to a 50% discount on Canadian train travel with VIARail (among a ton of other perks).

https://media.viarail.ca/en/press-releases/2015/10-july-2015...


This is awesome. Talk about being immigrant friendly.


If Amtrak would add reliable paid WiFi and upgrade their cars, train would be exceedingly worth it.

The next step would be to repair the tracks, which are shared by freight and passenger, which makes the ride worse.


Adding WiFi wouldn’t help. It would probably be a cellular based WiFi service massively shared and no better coverage than you would get with your own data plan.


They have WiFi on some trains, and that's exactly what it is.


The problem is the tracks are owned by the freight (at least for these long segments in the western US). For it to get better Amtrak would need an entire new set of tracks.


Yeah, a good rule of thumb is "don't expect Amtrak to be on time on tracks they don't control", which is "a lot of them".

One thing I do blame Amtrak for is that they don't always announce their delays as soon as they were known; I took a train that was delayed for two or three hours immediately after picking me up because CSX spit decided to rearrange a bunch of freight trains directly in front of us, and my cousins waiting to pick me up at the station at the other end said that the arrivals board claimed the train was on time up until a few minutes before it was scheduled to arrive, and then ticked up the arrival time by 15 or 30 minutes at a time until we actually arrived.

It wasn't Amtrak's fault I was 3 hours late, but it was their fault my cousins just had to hang out at a train station for 3 hours instead of leaving and coming back later.


Took Amtrak from Chicago to Las Vegas once. Worst travel experience of my life. Hit a car, had a breakdown in the mountains, and they lost my checked luggage. Over 24 hours late. Never again.

If you are ever tempted, just fly. It's cheaper, much faster, and you can spend the time and money you saved on something interesting.


This is what I heard from every single person who took a train long distance somewhere (>300mi)... some said it was an "experience" but they would never do it again, and flying is just as cheap, faster, better, less hassle.


I tried the Amtrack against advice not to. I went from DC to NYC and then to Boston. The train was not luxurious but it was "fine". I took the cheapest option (which was not cheap given the train was slow and the distance is short). [I'm comparing prices to EU].

- The seats were large and comfortable enough. But I'm a small sized person.

- The trains were on time.

- The stations were not renovated or nice but functional. Boston station was good enough. NYC, a bit confusing.

- There was food on board. It was okay for 3-4 hours ride.

- Wifi didn't work. Data will disconnect near big buildings or under tunnels.

- It's not clear which station we are in. Maybe they could have a digital screen that shows some info?


The Northeast Corridor Amtrak route is fine. The Acela trains are nicer and a bit faster but IMO not so much so that I typically will pay out of my own pocket at 2x the price. (The pricing is really for business travelers for which they only really need to be competitive with air.)

I much prefer those routes to flying. But Penn Station in NYC really is a disaster. (It's a long and sad story dating back to the Penn Central bankruptcy.) Although things are slowly being fixed up as part of a massive building project.


I did a search on the thread and didn't see it, so here's a shoutout to the USA Rail Pass (15/30/45 days of travel on Amtrak; while not unlimited, it functionally is in practice): https://www.amtrak.com/take-the-trains-across-america-with-u...

I spent 45 days traveling the US about a decade ago, during a transitionary period from work to grad school. Visited a bunch of friends in different states and really had a great time.

The clientelle for multiday Amtrak trips falls closer with travel backpackers and RVers - people who really care about the journey over the destination (since air is far superior to get you from A->B fast and reliably). Lots of interesting folks who also are doing this for whatever-their-own-reasons.

Not-sure-if-obsolete tip: I snagged my rail pass from a retiree on Craigslist for half price. Turns out Amtrak employees get friends-and-family rail passes as perks and a few of them end up on the resale market.


I had a very good experience taking the train from the Orlando, FL area to the Washington, DC area when I moved many years ago. That is Amtrak's auto line, so I also moved my car that way. As I recall, it was about $200 for my ticket and $200 for my car. I could have gotten a bit less buying earlier than I did. My other option was to drive myself, but that would have taken longer and been more expensive considering gas and lodging.

The trip was about ~16 hours total, including some time arriving early enough to line up to load my car, and time waiting for car unload.

Each carriage had an upper and lower half, and the lower half was further divided into restrooms and sleeper bunks on one half, and general seating on the other half. I just got a regular general seating ticket, which was fine because my trip was only one overnight - seats were spacious, reclined fairly far, had electric plugs and so on, and had a key advantage: the lower general seating compartment was a dead end. Only people sitting there had reason to come in, so it was quiet.

The upper half of each carriage linked to the other carriages, and was how everyone moved back and forth and got to the dining carriage. There was another carriage (top half) set aside as an entertainment space, with TVs and tables, reading area, decks of cards, bar, etc. People sitting in the top area had the less pleasant situation of sitting along the path everyone had to use to move around the train.

I thought the food was just fine. Yeah it isn't fine cuisine but it was tasty and included in the ticket.

Anyway, I'd like to try a longer train ride sometime, I know some folks who really enjoyed a Trans-Canada train vacation that included one or two overnights off the train. It sounds kinda fun, I'd spend my time reading, bring along some compact boardgames and a portable console to play.


I did SF to NY back in my 20s after working at summer camp. Not in one go, but over about four weeks with stops in Last Vegas, San Diego, New Orleans and Miami.

It was a great experience and I met some great people. Never had a sleeper, and that just made it easier to mingle with my fellow travellers.

I remember playing hours of chess with some old dude in the smoking carriage, and the shitty cans of margaritas at happy hour served from the train bar.

Unlike jumping on the plane, the train journeys were an integral part of the travelling experience, rather than just a method of getting from one city to another.


And then there's the less-luxury option. https://moxie.org/stories/klamath-falls/


There's a photo of a guy burning brush in his backyard and the caption says "Somewhere in Illinois. One of Amtrak’s main selling points is the chance to spy on the nation’s hidden places, the backyards whose possible existence had never occurred to you." It's interesting for me to look at that photo and think "I too have peered into that guy's yard. I don't recall specifically, but I took that train and if I happened to be on the same side... then presumably..."


When my father was in the RAF in WW2 he crossed the US by train from Florida to Hollywood - his reason simply seemed to be because he could.

Edit: Note that he did this during some leave time he had accumulated.


Well, this is timely. I'm hopping on Amtrak tomorrow for a 30 hour trip with three young kids.


It really is fun when the journey is the whole point. Last year I took the train from Adelaide to Melbourne, a trip I took frequently as a kid before the plane became primary. Back then it was exciting but there was not much to do: whole family in a sleeper cabin; a stop at the border to change crews, and that's it.

Now it's a twice-weekly tourist service. I was sad at the thought that train service had fallen so low, but discovered instead that I really enjoyed the change of landscape as we traveled and spent most of the 11 hours looking through the window. I was sorry to see all the now-closed country stations we went through (including my own: I had to drive into Adelaide to get the train and then 45 minutes later pass through my starting point) as the trains really did knit the little towns together in ways cars have not.

I also spent a lot of my childhood traveling on (steam!) trains in India, probably because of cost.

I think that's why a friend and I took the trans Siberia express in the 1980s when we were in our 20s. It was super fun but the opposite of what I wrote above: USSR was so huge that the view outside the window was largely monotonous, but the action on the train was fun (everyone was super friendly).


> TELL YOUR FELLOW AMERICANS that you plan to cross the United States by train, and their reactions will range from amusement at your spellbinding eccentricity to naked horror

Its not just that its the train use, its the fact that you want to cross America at all! The perception is that it is a large foreign land full of lots of things that can go wrong solely due to incongruent laws.

(Mid 1800s) Cross a border and be sold into slavery by bounty hunters? Check

(Fiction, but is it?) Transportation breaks down and you are surrounded by mutated hillbillies in the desert? Check

(2010s+) Highway robbery of all the money on you by some random municipality's police themselves under protection of the state? Check

(2010s+) Get thrown into an old people's home under a guardianship racket that the doctor's and the court system are all invested in? Check

Be kidnapped and sold into illegal sex slavery?

Be kidnapped and sold into legal sex slavery in the desert without adequate means of getting help?

But yeah none of that is likely to happen and these are irrational fears, but you can ALSO just fly over all of that noise.


This article is noticably more creative in its writing than the average nytimes article. Maybe a long train ride does a writer good (and anyone else who needs to think outside the box).


Amtrak has for a few years offered an annual Writers Residency Program. There may be some truth to your quip.

https://www.arts.gov/audio/writing-rails-amtrak-residency-wr...


It’s a special interest kind of article that gets written every once in awhile. Most articles of the same nature are typically written similarly.


It’s from the NYT Magazine, a glossy supplement included with the Sunday paper where they publish longer, more literary pieces.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_New_York_Times_Magazine


i haven't done it for a while. but a laptop, power, a big seat, flakey or non-existent internet (is it still that way?) and nothing else to do for 24+ hours is a pretty good setup for doing some serious coding.


It's super cool that Amtrak does a residency for writers[0].

Now if only open-source writers could fall under that umbrella!

[0] https://www.arts.gov/audio/writing-rails-amtrak-residency-wr...


Coincidentally, I was watching Brave Dave doing freight hopping all over North America. For the brave at heart and with tons of energy, this looks a bit more exciting, and much cheaper.

https://www.freighthopping.com/


And illegal, and dangerous.

Train hopping is for those who need it. Give it respect and don't treat it like a sport or touristy thing.

Story time... More than a score of years ago I was a young man traveling south from Seattle with a group of other kids. And old hand (I'll call him Jim) took us under his wing and showed us a bit of the ropes, how to ride the rails. The train folks are pretty old school. Level-headed, and not unkind.

At one point we stopped on a siding. Before long an older man in overalls and a cap came down, walking the line. He could have walked out of a 100-year old photo. We kids were spooked and hid in the back of the car, but Jim just sat calmly in the open cargo door, in plain sight, and waited for the train man to reach us. When he saw us he was very calm and quiet, he greeted Jim and they had a very mellow and civil little conversation. Before he left to check the rest of the train, he picked up a rusted old loose train spike from the ground and showed us how to use it to spike open the cargo door so it wouldn't be able to slide shut and trap us or injure us.

At a yard near Tacoma we tried to jump on a slow-moving train and the bulls stopped us. They were pretty kind considering, and they said that if we had been boarding a stopped train they wouldn't have bothered us, but a few weeks earlier a guy had tried to hop a moving train and tripped and fell and lost both of his legs, and that's why they stopped us that night, they said. Jim had a warrant out for some BS so they took him in. The next morning we tried to go see him but none of us knew his last name so the (very friendly and sympathetic) officer at the station's front desk couldn't tell us anything about him. We had to leave and I never saw him again. (Way before cell phones were common. Feels like 1800's now.)

I remember getting rained on while riding on some tanker cars. They have these niches in the bulkheads at each end that are just large enough for one or two people to curl up in. We took turns in there with the rest of us huddled around to try to block the rain. It might sound crazy but it was a lot of fun.

But I can't recommend it as an adventure. Visit the Grand Canyon, or volunteer in a remote place, or something if you want adventure. Train hopping is for those who need it. The old school respect and kindness that passed between the train folks and a group a homeless kids trying to travel hundreds of miles with no money was one of those secular sacred things that deserves respect. Trains are awesome.


I have nothing to add, except to say thanks for writing that – I really enjoyed reading it. A bit of whimsy in the preceding paragraphs.


Always a bit amusing when people who ride trains then complain about the time. What a wonderful thing to set the world aside and just relax.

I've enjoyed several 3-day trips (no sleeper) from the midwest to the west coast a great deal. Apart from the scenery, there's the honesty and storytelling ability of the landscape. Travelling through towns and seeing what the townsfolk seldom see. The weather sweeping across vast plains and mountain forests.

If you know some of the history of areas you're moving through (which is very easy to do these days), no audiobooks or iPods needed. Fellow passengers may have remarkable stories to tell - even with no words spoken. Oh, and that 'no smoking inside' thing? Don't take that too seriously, keep an eye open.


Scheduled aviation means altitude which means pressure change which fucks with my ears. So, I'm useless for a day or two either side.

Unless traveling across an ocean there will be a way to get there without a plane that only takes the 2-3 data I'd be out of action anyway.

One of the very few down sides of this era is that the fast passenger liner isn't a thing any more. Titanic sank trying to get to New York quickly. I can get a passenger ticket to New York today, from Southampton where I live, but now it's a leisure market, they don't schedule them for rapid travel just as a cruise, so it's not practical to go back and forth that way.


I took a long-haul, slow train in China from Shanghai to Guilin (18 hours or so) and that was a great experience - watching the Chinese landscape go by, really cheap to get a sleeper car with my friends, and no delays.

The high speed rail is good too if you want to be quick, both in China and Japan (though Japan is much more expensive); I took the Chinese ones frequently but longest haul I did was Shenzhen to Shanghai (8 hours or so) and that was both smooth, nice views and comfortable.


I did Seattle to Chicago. Drank quite a few pina colada from a can while sitting in the observation car.

Some of the most beautiful scenery you will ever see, assuming you aren't in a hurry


I really enjoyed driving across the country three times. Anyone do both, and can compare?


By sleeper car, train is luxurious and much more relaxed. By vehicle you can sleep each night in a hotel and take a shower each day. Both have + and -'s. But my ranking would be Sleeper Car train > Driving > non-sleeper car train.

Trains can be much more social.


You can get lower with a greyhound bus. Sure they stop at every prison along the way, but the views are actually quite nice. The social is also there, but can be a bit scary depending on your appetite for adventure.


I took a Greyhound from Pittsburgh to Seattle once. It was a 4 day experience and I think it took a week for my brain to reboot afterwards. Plus, we had a 24-hour layover due to weather - I think I slept on the floor of the bus station.


Does Greyhound still operate services across the US? I know in Canada they've shuttered most of their operations except for the more heavily used eastern-central routes in Ontario and Quebec because everything else is not profitable.


Greyhound still has all of its cross country routes. Like I said, many people depend on them, especially prisons, but they are also cheap and service many many places that trains and planes don’t go near.


IME, the train is like an abbreviated version of a car trip. It's great for when you don't have the weeks to spare doing a driving trip right, but still want some sightseeing and the feeling of traveling.

I've done short-on-time utilitarian driving trips too (all interstates, etc), and I'd definitely choose the train over that.

It also doesn't constrain your other leg, which can be flown if it fits your needs better. If you're only going one way, I'd recommend going east to west on the train. The train novelty will get you out of the dense Northeast, and then you can settle in after Chicago.


I've done both. I'd prefer train over car if it's possible. Being able to stretch your legs, change positions, and not focus on the road constantly is nice. Its much more relaxing than flying, however I'd rather fly and be uncomfortable for only a few hours.


I took the Amtrak from Albany to Boston regularly for a while. Once, we had a hazmat train in front of us come uncoupled, and were sitting on the track for three hours. Another time, we were delayed because the tracks right past Albany were somehow on fire. I was an hour late to the station one time, and still had to wait two hours once I arrived because the train was somehow later than I was.

Amtrak. Not even once.


Back in 2011 I took a trip from Philly to Tampa (to watch spring training).

Me and my buddy split the sleeper car cost (~$750 each). That also included three meals since it was a 24 hour trip. And at that time the food was good.

It was really fun actually. Yes, it was long, but we enjoyed the trip. Seeing the east coast up and down was neat. Talking with random people who are there.

I'd definitely do it again, but only for special trips.


Canadian here to offer an anecdote. I spent about 80 days road tripping and living out of the car with my gf between julyish to Nov in the US, coming from Vancouver. My car died near Fresno and I had about 2 days to figure out what to do with almost all of my posessions and find a way home. After considering our options we decided to take the train from Fresno to Vancouver with some heavy and annoying baggage, and then I'd later Train from Vancouver to Winnipeg for christmas.

Context out of the way, AmTrack was great and mostly on time with some killer scenery and no WiFi in economy. We really enjoyed the 30 hours or so plus the 2 hour bus ride. The train from Van to Winnipe was also fantastic in Economy, albeit a little uncomfortable and much more dated than the trains in Cali. It was just me solo, so I made some friends and got some work done, if I was single I'd maybe find a closer friend. Killer scenery. Highly recommended but it will cost you to be comfortable or pretentious.


Caity Weaver used to write for Gawker. I've always loved her work – I think she's one of the best writers of our generation.


To top it off, one should try Trans Siberian Railway, the longest railway in the world.[1][2] There are 3 routes:

- Moscow to Vladivostok

- Moscow to Beijing

- Moscow to Ulaanbaatar

I haven't been myself, but it's one of those things one should try once before they die. And there are even movies set in Transsib. [3][4]

[1] https://wikitravel.org/en/Trans-Siberian_Railway

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans-Siberian_Railway

[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transsiberian_(film)

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horror_Express


American trains are so sloooooow. I routinely take long range bullet trains in China, and am greatly grateful for the generosity of Chinese taxpayers making it real =D

Shanghai - Beijing sleeper trains are great value, and during 8 hour Guangzhou/Shenzhen - Shanghai day trips, you can work comfortably.


I remember when a friend and I were planning a trip from SF to Chicago and looked in to taking a train. Turns out, the train takes longer than driving and costs more the flying. Which really made me wonder... who is taking these trains?


So, how feasible is this as a remote worker?

What I am really asking is, how reliable is wifi/internet and is it available through the entire journey?

I would not mind a workcation this way, but probably could not afford a satphone’s data plan.


There is no WiFi on Amtrak trains--you'd have to tether to your phone. And for most Amtrak routes, you'd be going through some significant service deadzones (depending on the route, you could be in the middle of a mountain wilderness).

But I can't think of a better workcation spot if you can be offline periodically. For me, the train is simultaneously relaxing and stimulating, a perfect place to zone in on work while still embarking on an adventure.

Edit: Apparently there is WiFi on some Amtrak trains, but I wouldn't count on it.


As others have noted, variable and pretty much guaranteed to be bad in remote rural locations (i.e. many of the most scenic). TBH, reliable WiFi for workations (or even just business travel) is a bit of a crapshoot in my experience. It's a lot more consistent than it used to be. But I've also spent days fighting a marginal connection to get something done. Fortunately, in a city, you can usually find good wireless at some coffeeshop even if it's bad at your hotel.


Extremely unreliable; I've only taken the Lake Shore Limited and California Zephyr, so I can't speak for the whole thing, but I'd say I had cell reception about half the time, maybe less.


Lovely writing!

In May, myself, my wife, our two kids (8, 6), are amtraking from Chicago to San Francisco in a family sleeper. I'm excited. We've enjoyed our (much shorter) amtrak trips from Ashland, VA to DC.


This article's title strikes me as condescending and annoying. There are 'reasons' to travel by train for a lot of people. My cousin has a deep fear of flying and hasn't done so in several decades. So he travels by train. As this writer learns, it can also be an enjoyable way to see the country.

That said, I did once survive a 24 hour delay on Amtrak between Chicago and Oakland. It was the middle of winter and track was splitting, so the train would move a few miles and then wait a few hours for the crew to replace the broken rail.


In the last 6 years I've twice done circuits of Europe by train - sleepers (mostly) in 2013 when we hit 28 countries in 18 days, and an anniversary reprise of sorts last summer which took in a mere 16 countries in 10 days. As much as I love to fly (and I do), long distance rail travel for no particular reason is wonderful. I hope one day to hit up a long Amtrak route or two in the US, maybe the Ghan in Australia, and others.


I’ve done Amtrak with my young kids twice, Tampa to DC overnight, in a sleeper cabin as described in the article. They love it, we love it. Hanging out, watching the scenery go by, exploring the train, meeeting other passengers, reading, playing on devices, playing games (the kids love making little forts in the upstairs bunk). It is a wonderful way to travel. We do the train one way and then fly back to save time.


I've done so much air travel for work and would love to catch a train on the way back. But the fact that it costs such a ridiculous amount just doesn't work. The price really need to compete against driving your own vehicle. If you plan it right air travel can be very cheap, just wish I could afford taking a slow train on a Friday to be home in time for work Monday and cost me $100 or less


Headline like this won't get me to read the article. There's plenty of reason to cross the country by train. You could be afraid of planes. You could just really like trains. You could like to see the country from the ground. Maybe it's a romantic experience or journey. Who knows, but there are certainly really good reasons travel across the country the way you want to.


I'm planning to take my family on an RV across the US (The Lincoln Highway in other words) partly cos it's always been a dream of mine, and partly to get the kids introduced to real travelling rather than holidays.

I had never considered it by train - seems harder to just stop off and meet people, something I consider the point of travelling (yes landscapes are lovely but I am a Homo Sapiens Bigot)


> I had never considered it by train - seems harder to just stop off and meet people

Could you take the train, but instead of a non-stop journey just jump off when you pass through an interesting town, and then resume your journey the next day?


Maybe, maybe not. Some routes are one trail per week, some 3x a week. There are many interesting places not reachable by train at all. If your trip works with those limits then there is a pass you can buy.


It seems to lack the flexibility I was hoping for - lunch in this town, dinner in that. plus i suspect it entails excitingly expensive tickets and fun timetable management :-)


Ah I'm used to roughly hourly trains - I guess some of them in the USA only pass through once a week even.


This post will get downvoted so much but as a female who grew up on welfare, the first one in my family to graduate from high school, with a degree in electrical engineering and now self taught crappy but getting better software engineer, I literally want to cry knowing this antagonistic response os still the default of the heartbeat in tech.

If anyone eants real stories about what its like for a female in hardcore tech not a priveleged woman in pro women tech events all the time (and honestly, traumatised to go in fear of the dillemma of how do I encourage women while simultaneously warning them of what an emotioal nightmare it is wading through biases much like the ones that exist in this conversation but not as a one off hn comment threads but interwoven in the fabric of your everyday interactions with coworkers, tech scene friends and original first impression to college peers) while not diacouraging them that hey deapitw the building, the perao al dignity you'll gain from prpving yourself if your willing to put in the effort and quite honestly lets be real, the security that financially you'll never hage to depend on a man, that the day he hits you you can take you and your children and leave his sorry ass behind and never have to worry about money or atleast meeting the basic needs of your family, is nkt the high money whire rich men on wallstreet feel bjt its a high you should feel everyday when you wake up in the morning when you ask yourself what is the minimum level of bullshit your willing to put up with and what is not, is forever worth it.


The most difficult part about rail travel seems to be booking it. I've looked multiple times at using Amtrak for both travel and for rail tourism, and I've never been able to fully understand what to book and how to book it. Maybe I'm being dense about it but it always feels unnecessarily complicated and confusing.


Maybe I'm not understanding what you're not understanding. Just put in your origin and destination cities and book a ticket. It's only slightly different from air travel in that there are fewer hubs and routes. Open up the map [1], pick two cities along the red lines.

[1] https://www.amtrak.com/routes.html


I did it with a 15-day railpass as a graduation trip with 4 friends. Wouldnt say that it was the best experience with very tight budget as broke college students but a very special experience for sure.

Especially when passing through Washington state national park. At that moment all of us agreed that the trip was worth it.


> Amtrak food is on a par with the fourth-best airplane meal you could ever imagine.

Well that's charitable...


I did Seattle->Chicago on Amtrak a couple of years back in a sleeper car, and the food was just fine. Certainly much better than the foil-wrapped disappointment you get in economy class on transatlantic flights.


Emirates airline food is pretty decent to be honest, and that's foil-wrapped.


Qatar airline is not bad either, though not as good as Emirates. Jet used to be good, not sure now, with all their financial woes


I flew Jet just once (from Toronto to Hong Kong I think), and I remember it as the only airplane meal that didn't seem like it came from a microwave. It was actual Indian food – maybe not top-tier-restaurant quality, but good! They also handed out _actual_ hot towels – not those single-use ones. This was all in economy.


> Amtrak food is on a par with the fourth-best airplane meal you could ever imagine.

What does this even mean? Do you only get a minor case of food poisoning if you eat it?


Food poisoning for airline meals is quite rare. They go to great lengths to ensure that it’s the least offensive to the widest range of stomachs (at the expense of flavor and variety). The last thing an airline wants is 400 people fighting over 12 bathrooms 8 hours into a 15 hour flight from LAX to SYD.


It's an artistic way of saying it's unremarkable, or "meh."


Meals on flagship airlines in business/first can be very good. 'Fourth best' in my mind is better than domestic (US) coach (on the rare occasions it exists) and not quite as good as Emirates coach. Acela 1st meals fall in that bucket easily.


If someone want to do it virtually - highly recommend https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5378198/ , a lot of good nature views and historical facts.


Public ground/rail transport in the US is not for the faint hearted. Spoken as a travel veteran in three decades of cross country trips via Greyhound and Amtrak.

TIPS: * Don't cross Texas in a Greyhound. * Don't go to New Orleans Amtrak coach from DC.


Can you share the why of those two tips? I'm not from the US so I have no experience with those but it sounds like you have some interesting stories about it :)


Texas is a long, uncomfortable haul in general. The year I did this crossing was 1994. Witnessed racism, religion gone wrong and malicious violence in more than one local personality jumping on for a town to town hop.

New Orleans coach was 2004. The rowdiness, smells and movement in the train gave me the only migraine I've ever had. I could barely give directions to the cab driver for my hotel and slept 16 hours.


I've done DC<->ATL on both coach and sleeper. Sleeper's nicer, obv, but coach is really fine. It's not super crowded, and the amount of legroom is ridiculous compared to an airplane. Even though it takes 4X as long as a plane, it's overnight, so it doesn't really seem too long at all.


>Amtrak clings to the hope that someday people will view its service not as something that sucks and that they hate, but as something that is actually nice and that they don’t hate.

This is the money quote, I think.


It's literally cheaper and faster in many cases to fly into one city, take a beautiful stretch of scenic railway, and then fly back home from another city. Frontier Airlines is good for this.


There is no appetite for high-speed rail service in the US or Canada. Mainly because of distances. But the Fuxing Hao CR400AF/BF can reach speeds of 249 mph. Now at an average of, lets say, 180mph, it would take about 15 hours to travel from Vancouver to Toronto. (Yes, rough calculation, but just to get the idea.) So I could leave work early, say at 3pm, leave the stations at 4pm, enjoy the view as the rockies whip by, go to bed, wake up and have breakfast on the train, and be ready to have my meeting with the Toronto VCs at 8:30 in the morning. Use electric power instead of diesel, and this would be my preferred way for this route.

Of course, the cost to build this might drain the treasury for the foreseeable future...


While I am still going to do the empire builder. The theme I generally hear is: "despite it being more expensive, takes longer, it is an amazing trip that I would never take again"


How's the wifi? I've been considering doing this one day. I can work from anywhere - so if I had a good wifi signal for a bit everyday I could easily sit on a train and code.


I went from San Fran to Chicago by train as a backpacker 13 years ago. Was a nice experience. Also got my first Macbook just before the trip and had some time to play with it. :-)


I don't understand the obsession with laying high-speed rail all across the US when we have perfectly good airplanes and a massive network of airports.


I've taken the train across the country several times. I don't hate to fly(it's getting pretty bad actually) but I love to take the train. I never get a sleeper and I recently discovered a way to make the journey way more comfortable: not one but two buckwheat hull pillows. I use them to sleep so I usually bring one but for some reason I decided to take two and ended up with one for my head and one under my butt. I suspect that they make the seats extra uncomfortable in an effort to sell sleepers. Anyway this arrangement solves the problem for me.


My husband and I are taking the train from Washington, DC to Glacier National Park in September. Super excited! Get to cross it off of the bucket list.


This article shows how culturally different Sweden and U.S. are. In Sweden it has become taboo to use the plane for any travel destination where you can go by train, to the level where we see the complete opposite headlines here ("There is no reason to fly when you can take the train"). You need to have a very good reason to fly at all or the pitchforks will get you.

I've personally completely stopped flying.


Undoubtedly there are cultural differences. However, you are attributing to cultural difference things that are more directly linked to geographical differences that have contributed to limited rail infrastructure and route availability.

First & foremost, US rail is minimal in terms of routes offered and significantly more expensive. Compared to planes, it's at least double the cost, and 4x to 5x the cost if you want a bed and shower throughout the multi-day trip.

Second, the US is also significantly larger, making train travel much less practical. The longest trip through Sweden is roughly 1,000 miles top to bottom. That's most of a full 24 hours day in a train. In the US, it's about 3x that from New York City to California.


This is a terrible comparison. A better one is continental Europe as a whole, which has many rail lines spanning it. This is probably what the Swedish person was referring to, not simply staying in Sweden (the major cities in Sweden probably aren't far enough apart to fly between). Continental Europe is very roughly the size of the US, yet trains are used there extensively.

The problem with the US isn't size, it's political will. America simply does not want to have high-quality, high-speed train service.


Political will exists when the projects are on a smaller scale, a scale that would span countries in continental Europe. See the high speed plans in California as an example, even with the recent reduction in scope.

Trains are extensive in Europe in part because each country was able to make (relatively) smaller investments in their own networks. As time went by over the decades, these grew and were able to connect with each other. That type of gradual growth wasn't possible in the use where small incremental changes weren't useful. Decades ago, and still today, many routes that would be useful would need to span hundred of miles where there are no intervening points of interest. Meaning a massive investment would be required for a single point to point route.

It's too simplistic to point toward a single variable for something of this sort. Many variables come together to reach this point. Political will is only part of it, but even then, you have to ask why isn't there political will? It often has as much to do with economic and geographic realities, not a general unwillingness to invest in infrastructure. See our build out of the US interstate system beginning in the 50's as a counterexample to our lack of build out for trains.


This isn't true at all. The size of the US isn't the problem, at all, no matter how much you want to believe it is. The best places for high-speed train routes aren't across the continent (even with HSR, it wouldn't be terribly competitive with airlines unless you're going partway, e.g. DC to Houston), it's along the coasts. The northeast corridor is the most obvious place to put HSR (no, Acela doesn't count). The other obvious place is along the west coast: SD-LA-SF-Portland-Seattle). Just a rail line between SanFran and LA would make a lot of sense, but the US simply cannot make it happen, even when it's all within a single state.

And yes, it really is a general unwillingness to invest in infrastructure. You can see it in everything else going on in the US these days. No, the 50s interstate system is not a counterpoint, because that was 60-70 years ago now, and things in this country have changed a lot since then. The US was good at lots of infrastructure in those days, not just highways.


It's not a matter of how much I believe. I went back to the 50's & interstate highway precisely because there could be no debating that it was a time where infrastructure was prioritized. And yet, even then, there was no major build out of rail. Because the geographic realities and subsequent economics don't work for it. The interstates made more sense and in terms of freight capacity still allowed for coast-to-coast service by trucks, which have dominated the continental freight since (a slight resurgence in freight rail boosted things in the 80's which was a good thing)

I have further evidence on my interpretation of geographical circumstances greatly influencing this issue: Canada.

Canada has roughly similar ridership as the US. US has about 1.7 rides per person, Canada has about 2.1. Might seem a fair bit higher, but compare it to a country like the UK, which has 26 rides per person, and that's not even counting the London Tube. Why?

Because the US and Canada face very similar geographical circumstances.

Maybe my interpretation weighs geography slightly too much, but if so, yours seems to weigh it not at all. That simply isn't supported by either the data available or the historic evolution of rail travel in the US.

I really don't see what's so difficult to understand. For the most part it's a point to point network, and every link, due to the points being further apart, costs significantly more to build. The exceptions, like on the east coast where points are closer, actually do have better rail. Not great, but more comprehensive than the middle 90% of the country where geography is as I have described.


Again, you're making up a strawman. The economics DO work for rail, no matter how much you disagree, when you constrain things to the coasts. Yet we don't have decent rail connecting the coastal cities.

Canadian cities are generally farther apart than US cities, except for Toronto-Ottawa-Montreal. All the Canadian cities are just on the other side of the border, which is the longest undefended international border in the world.

>The exceptions, like on the east coast where points are closer, actually do have better rail. Not great

Not great is a severe understatement.

>I really don't see what's so difficult to understand.

I don't either. San Diego, LA, and SanFran are not that far apart, and would be well served by a high speed rail like they have in Japan and China and Europe. Yet we don't have it. Same goes for the northeast corridor. These cities are no farther apart than the cities served by HSR in these other countries.


> See the high speed plans in California as an example, even with the recent reduction in scope.

What recent reduction in scope? Letting aside all the confusion caused by either communications incompetence in the Newsome Administration or deliberate intent to provoke controversy, all Newsome announced was:

(1) that construction work and related land acquisition would be focussed on the already-designated initial construction segment, which was already the case (hence, the name “initial construction” segment.)

(2) That environmental work would continue on the rest of the Phase 1 SF-LA alignment, but the state would not fund more than environmental work until outside (federal, private, or other) financing was identified. (That only the ICS was funded for construction, and that outside funds would be a precondition for other construction was already the case, too; focus on finding such additional arrangements had focussed particularly on the planned initial operations segment, which overlaps with, but does not include all of, the ICS.)

(3) That the Phase 2 extensions to Sacramento and San Diego weren't getting any work (which they haven't been forever; they've been drawn in as future expansions but not covered in any of th recent business plans.)

Or, in sum total, basically a reiteration of the status quo as if it were new policy.


I thought the phase 2 was recently taken off the table? Maybe I misread something :/


Many people are fine with taking the train in the US when it's remotely competitive in terms of time and price. However, in practice, that mostly means a subset of the Northeast Corridor (the whole thing is about an 8-hour trip vs. a short flight) or a handful of various city pairs that are only a few hundred miles apart. But it's simply not practical for me to take the train from Boston to Chicago, much less San Francisco. People can get out pitchforks if they like but I'm essentially always going to fly.


Quite. Makes sense to do train from NY-Boston or NY-Washington. Maybe Washington-Boston, but 5 hours is probably about the limit.

I suspect few people in Sweden would recommend traveling Stockholm to Madrid by train


Boston to Washington is something over 7 hours. I've done it but it really doesn't make sense most of the time--especially given that Reagan airport is on the metro which neutralizes one of the advantages that taking the train has in a place like Manhattan.

It's really the two segments you mention that get a lot of the traffic. You see this when you pull into NYP from Boston and the train pretty much empties out.


I've never been in a situation in the US where a train was even close to competitive in terms of time and price


Maybe your criteria are different but lots of people in the US Northeast Corridor find trains a better value than the alternatives for a lot of segments.


In Sweden it has become taboo to use the plane for any travel destination where you can go by train

Not in the Sweden I live in. Sure there is some weak social pressure to fly less and some companies have a policy that you take the train if it's less than 3-4 hours or so (of course with SJ being SJ a 3 hour train ride has an annoying tendency to take 4-8 hours), but no one expect you take the train Stockholm-Umeå.


To be fair, NY → LA is over 4,000 KM. Would you fly to say, Bulgaria? Southern Italy?


Yes, there's a big movement promoting night trains in Europe right now. I see "night train maps" in my feed all the time. Additionally one of the fastest growing Instagram accounts is one shaming influencers who are flying instead of taking the train.


And I work with lots of people in Europe who routinely fly all the time. I'm not sure how big a "movement" it is to take trains when it doesn't make sense in terms of time and money to do so. Not to put too fine a point on it, who cares what someone with an Instagram account says?


You might, but you talk of a movement. If it's in the "movement" stage, then it is very much not an ingrained part of the culture yet, which was your original claim. Ditto for the instagram account. That speaks to something that may be grass roots, but not cultural. Further, this mindset speaks towards an ingrained bias of privilege that many/most people probably can't actually afford. Even assuming the rail cost for a 4,000 to 6,000 km trip is comparable to flight, the ability to take upwards of 3-4 days of your time to leisurely make a trip requires you to have that much leisure time at your disposal.


I just read that the Austrian national railway is planning to re-introduce them and was surprised.

Europe had a pretty decent overnight train network in the 90s and even into the 2000s.

Then flying got cheap and people basically didn't want to take those trains any longer. Most disappeared.

What, short of making flying much more expensive, would make a new attempt at introducing them successful, you think?


>What, short of making flying much more expensive, would make a new attempt at introducing them successful, you think?

More onerous security procedures at airports, including pat-downs, extremely long lines, needing to show up 3-4 hours early, etc.?

Also, smaller and smaller seats on planes might encourage more use of trains. How do people from the Netherlands (tallest in the world on average) handle flying these days?


I'm from the UK and I've taken the train for holidays in Southern Italy (Salerno) and Bosnia. (But to be fair I'd usually fly to Istanbul, and that's only 3MM).


> In Sweden it has become taboo to use the plane for any travel destination where you can go by train

No it hasn't. This might be true in your direct social circle, but I know enough people who shuffle between Sthlm and GBG a few times a week on the plane to prove otherwise.


Sweden is a small country. Would you take the train from Sweden to Italy? Even that trip is much less distance than the trip in question here, but it is the closest example I can think of that ought to be possible. A more comparable trip would be Sweden to Kazakhstan.


> Sweden is a small country

It's about 1500 miles from one end to the other, and not exactly "dense".

Sure it's small compared with Russia or Canada, but it's larger than most.

Realistically anything upto about 500 miles shouldn't need flights -- that's 2-3 hours on a train.

Once you go over 1000 miles then train stops making sense, it's 5 or 6 hours compared with 2 on a plane. 5 hours might work for an evening meal/relax, departing say 4pm and hotel by 10pm. With decent wifi and power you could probably push it to 7 or 8 hours, so maybe 1500 miles if it was high speed all the way.

A sleeper train (which probably wouldn't be high speed) would work at about 1000 miles in 12 hours, leave at 9PM after dinner, getting you there for shower, breakfast, and a 9AM meeting. Would beat a 6AM flight (so up at 4:30)


Sweden is really long for a "small" country, but if you look at a map, all the major cities are in the south and not very far from each other. There's some small cities like Umea (population a little over 100k) farther north, but no major metro areas.


> Would beat a 6AM flight (so up at 4:30)

Agreed. When the option exists, it's so much nicer than flying.

At one point in my career I traveled from Amsterdam to various other European cities for 3-5 day work trips fairly frequently. Where direct overnight train connections existed, I would try and use those rather than get up for a 6am flight. For example Amsterdam - Copenhagen used to exist as an direct overnight connection. The cost for a private sleeper cabin with shower and breakfast was, I think, about €500 -- less than a flight + an extra hotel night. The trouble was getting my company to reimburse it, because it didn't fit neatly in their travel reimbursement policy's categories and rules.


This story is about the US though. The distance across the Us is over 2000 miles. Very few cities in the US are as close as 500 miles.


High speed rail is 200mph, New York to Chicago is 4 hours at that speed, 2h30 by plane. Toronto should be under 3 hours.

These city groups would also work with French style TGVs

Miami to Orlando, Jacksonville, Atlanta

Seatle/Portland/Vancouver

SF/LA/San Diego/Vegas/Pheonix

With sleeper trains you can connect New York to Miami in 12 hours, LA to Seattle, Chicago to New Orleans. You need the trains to run at about 110mph, which is normal local line speed.


Who will pay that ticket price to go to and from New Orleans? What’s the economic base? The line is shut down right now because the flood relief spillway is open near New Orleans and water might possibly swamp the trestle. While they are building a replacement, I don’t think it’s any less vulnerable. Imagine advertising a 110 mph service and then having to shut it down for that. CNR gives zero fucks.


Yeah, but Sweden is small. In the US, people routinely drive distances where you would be flying or using the train. The mountains make things a bit different, but I think in general it's true.


The argument would be that you don't need to travel where you can't take the train. If you have a job that requires it, quit.


Congratulations, you have good job mobility. And it biases you towards the privilege that you have, but most other people do not. The vast majority of people do not have that ability to be selective. In a few months, I must travel for work. Should I quit? You would say yes, I suppose. I don't have the luxury, either financially or as a matter of practicality: any other I might take would similarly require such travel on occasion. Maybe I could find another field to work in? Ah, but I live extremely close to my work place, less then 3km. Most other jobs, even within my field, would require I commute daily between 40-50km each way. So, maybe I avoid occasional air travel, but I still produce a larger carbon foot print. Train travel to other locations around me? Doesn't exist, there aren't the rails. Take a bus? Similarly, the routes don't work out: I might have to take 6 buses for 3 hours to get some place 40-50km away.

This is just the work side of things. What about family? A loved one is sick, or dies. Should I not travel to be with them, to help, to grieve with my family? Should I ask for a teleconference into the funeral?


You've convinced me. This is my last day as an airline pilot!


That works better in a place where people can reliably and cheaply take trains from A to B.

The people arguing with you that they need to fly are almost certainly in places like the US, where even local trains are a pretty terrible, expensive experience relative to flying (or driving, on the shorter end).

I'm 90% of an anti-car zealot that lives in the densest city in one of the largest metropolitan areas in the US. I would love to be able to reasonably take a train when I travel, but the ticket prices are astronomical and the reliability is horrendous relative to buses, airplanes or driving costs.


How often do you take 3-day train journeys from Sweden?


Trick question. Sweden isn't large enough to require trips longer than a day. I'm going to bet they fly when, for example, they need to go from Stockholm to Madrid, roughly the distance from New York to California.


This was awesome and the trip is on my bucket list.

However, I really enjoyed the tongue in cheek humor.


The writer for this story is exceptional. This is non-fiction commentary at its best.


Doesn't the government run Amtrak?


Sort of, but not really. The US Government is king of weird semi-privatized public partnerships that are the worst of both worlds. Amtrak is very similar to the current iteration of the USPS, in that Amtrak is run as its own "for profit" somewhat publicly traded company, yet has to answer to the US Congress as its largest shareholder.


There's also no reason not to ;).


I took the train for the first time a few months back. Was a couple hundred miles (less even).

I really like it for about the first 3/4.

Then we took forever to get the last little bit done. I looked into it and apparently out west Amtrak has an atrocious record for on time service.

It's a shame because it's a great way to travel if you can take the time. It's comfortable, I had power and wifi. The food isn't great but oh well. I'd rather take the train than my car, driving is dreary. I'd rather take it than the bus, which is just god awful.

I really wish we would put in the time to make our trains better. Passenger tracks and high speed trains would be awesome. Instead we waste time and effort on Elon's tunnels.


[flagged]


Agreed on the poorly laid out website. I book once or twice a year and will always call in. The customer service reps are friendly and helpful. They’ll input different parameters and will hold a reservation I think for 24hrs without charge. If you don’t book the seat just goes back into inventory.


Unreadable and bizarre article. Congrats to the author on rubbing shoulders with the hoi polloi and getting a...train.




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