She's most likely some upper middle class privileged white woman "journalist" (used very loose) who thinks she knows everything about a place because she spent a week there.
The entire article is praising chicha's cultural value and lamenting its passing. I'm struggling to understand why one sentence--"Frothy and milky in texture, the corn-based, alcoholic brew tastes a bit like the inside of a new shoe"--apparently turns it into vicious imperialism.
It's not even that negative! The inside of a new shoe isn't a smell I associate with deliciousness, but it's not really unpleasant. I feel like you're demanding that she lie and say it was the best thing she ever tasted.
Imperialism and eurocentrism are two entirely different things so please look up the definitions before you try to put words into my mouth. Second, I am not demanding that she lies, but to simply be a bit less condescending towards local traditions. I guess I expect a bit more from a publication such as Atlas Obscura than to have their writers sound like characters out of a Tom Clancy novel.
Lastly, she lifted most of her "research" from this popular blog entry from nearly six years ago and didn't bother to credit its author: https://www.historiacocina.com/es/cerveza-colombia
