A bit ironic if the consumption of alcohol itself represents a greater health risk to its drinkers. TBH, I think it has more to do with the idea of being artisanal and “crafted” by tradespeople.
Kind of the same idea as wine from organic grapes.
We've had a few thousand years to work out the health risks of alcohol. The health or environmental risks of GMOs are based on scientific predictions made in the last 50 years, rather than centuries of experience passed down through culture. That seems reason enough for a little more caution.
It doesn't make logical sense in this context to lump all the deaths from doing stupid things while extremely drunk in with the long term health effects, even if it's convenient rhetorically. People concerned with the nuances of fine whisky and the risks of GMOs are likely not the type who are getting blind drunk and winning Darwin awards on a Saturday night.
Kind of the same idea as wine from organic grapes.