The Nexus One does officially allow you to install your own build. Google gives you the directions to "unlock" your N1 bootloader, which granted, voids the warranty, but is a "sanctioned" method for flashing your phone's firmware.
Alternately, the OpenMoko FreeRunner is a "truly free" phone, and has its own distribution of Android available in which you have total control of the entire hardware and software stack.
Alternately, the OpenMoko FreeRunner is a "truly free" phone, and has its own distribution of Android available in which you have total control of the entire hardware and software stack.