Hmm, I agree the font was annoying, but it not unreadable. Indeed it is much easier to read than the grey-on-grey text that you often find on modern sites.
And contra the parent comment, it doesn't look like a scan of a centuries old document -- it just looks a scan of a book from the mid 20th century.
I've read lots of such books, and while some have better typography than others, they are all quite easy to read. I think we have a habit of conflating "this is ugly I wish it were different" with "I can't read this".
Lots of things hamper the legibility of that site. Poor font choice, pure black text on pure white, long line length, narrow leading, small size. Looking at the site header it appears the typography decisions were based on decoration instead of legibility.
And contra the parent comment, it doesn't look like a scan of a centuries old document -- it just looks a scan of a book from the mid 20th century.
I've read lots of such books, and while some have better typography than others, they are all quite easy to read. I think we have a habit of conflating "this is ugly I wish it were different" with "I can't read this".