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Totally anecdotal here, but I would not hesitate to wager that many climbers' grip strengths lie way outside the normal range. The sport has a higher grip exercise-to-cardiovascular exercise ratio (however you might measure that) than probably any other sport that exists today.



Maybe for 'gym rat' climbers. Gyms have larger holds and steeper walls. Climbing in the real world is more about balance and legs/feet. You almost never hang off your hands. Instead you are gripping tiny flakes of rock in an effort to keep weight over your feet. Hands and fingers will get abused in cracks (something gyms dont have) but im not so sure about grip.


Not trying to sound arrogant, but this is simply false. Source: me. I climb 5.13/V10.


And I lead 5.11c walls. It's a big sport.


Yeah, I think people are also confusing grip endurance with grip strength. Pulling a 500+ lb bar off the ground requires more grip strength than climbing on the walls supporting your body weight.


Also, different parts of the finger. Outdoor climbers use tip, indoor climber the first two knuckles. Weightlifter use the whole hand, which is probably best for measured grip.


Another way of building your grip strength is deadlifting raw, although that is anaerobic.


raw ... ?


Without a deadlift suit[1]. Some people also use "raw" to mean without straps as well[2].

[1] https://gometal.com/product/pro-king-deadlift-suit/

[2] https://www.paulcheksblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Wri...


Equipped DL puts more strain on the grip simply because the weight is heavier.

The best DL-like movement that specifically targets grip strength is partial DLs off the blocks or in the rack. That way the weight is heavier and you can specifically target the lockout hold where the grip strength is most important DL - wise.


Only ever heard it for straps.




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